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THIS LAVISH oversized limited edition book brings together a collection of favorite photographs and stories from the pages of the New Fillmore. It tells the story of an ever-changing small town in the big city with a rich history and a strong sense of community.
Available exclusively at Browser Books on Fillmore, or order online.
THIS DOCUMENTARY — filmed entirely on Fillmore Street — tells the story of longtime Fillmore resident Kelly Johnson, who used a new California law to end his life on his own terms.
THE STARBUCKS at 2222 Fillmore Street is set to close its doors on December 1, leaving loyal customers and locals shocked and disappointed.
Annabelle Cimino, the store’s shift manager, has worked at the Fillmore location since 2017. Known for her personal touch, Cimino greets regulars by name and even hand-decorates their takeaway bags.
The building, one of several on the block now owned by venture capitalist investor Neil Mehta’s nonprofit, has faced its share of challenges. Last year, both the air conditioning system and the sewage line were replaced. But the introduction of Starbucks’ single-cup brewing machines, alongside the new air conditioning system, reportedly exceeded the building’s electrical capacity.
“We believe the building couldn’t support the electrical load,” Cimino said. “I’m going to really miss our clients on Fillmore Street.”
Staff members have been breaking the news to customers, many of whom frequent the shop daily. The location is particularly popular with students from nearby schools, including Convent, University High School, Hamlin and Stuart Hall, who flock to the shop for sweet drinks, cookies and K-Pops.
“This is my home,” said University High freshman Sofia Linadev. “I don’t know what I’m going to do.”
All of the employees have been offered positions at other Starbucks locations, Cimino said. Starbucks continues to have shops in the neighborhood inside the Mollie Stone’s on California Street and at Fillmore and O’Farrell.
After a decade, Ines Wilson is leaving Invision, the optometry office and eyewear emporium at 1907 Fillmore. She has become a valued fashion advisor, helping Invision’s clients choose stylish glasses that flatter their faces. October 31 is her final day.
Wilson’s outsize personality and star quality have made her a standout not only on the street, but also on Instagram, where she has been featured in dozens of videos.
The videos resulted from a collaboration between Wilson and Luis Quiroz, Invision’s social media director. They recently shot a final video that serves as something of an exit interview for a familiar face on Fillmore.
I am, according to certain misleading reports, the mysterious evil investor buying property up and down Fillmore Street. These reports haven’t been very clear on the details of my sinister plan, but it sure does sound nefarious.
Height limits on prime blocks of Fillmore Street may be “upzoned” from 40 feet to 65 feet under plans being reviewed by the city’s Planning Department.
The change would allow buildings up to six stories on Fillmore from California north to Jackson Street.
The proposed changes would also raise the height limit from 40 to 65 feet on Broadway between Fillmore and Laguna. On portions of California and Bush streets, the height limit would be raised from 40 to 85 feet, allowing eight-story buildings.
It’s all part of an upzoning plan being developed by Mayor London Breed’s administration to meet a state mandate that 82,000 new homes be built in the city in the next six years.
Changes in state law intended to spur housing development, plus the state density bonus, could potentially raise those heights even further, if affordable housing is included.
The proposal would apply to many other areas throughout the city, including the commercial stretches of Union, Chestnut, Polk and Clement streets.
Fillmore Street was not originally included in the proposed upzoning maps, but that changed early this year, just after investor Neil Mehta bought the Clay Theater and the storefront next door. After the map was revised in early February, a nonprofit funded by Mehta bought a number of additional buildings on the 2200 block of Fillmore and pursued still others.
City planners said Fillmore had always been part of their plan.
“It was a simple oversight,” said Joshua Switzky, deputy director of citywide planning. “We had always intended (and stated) that we were proposing rezoning in the commercial corridors … For some reason, we missed Upper Fillmore on the early drafts.”
The upzoning proposal, which would make changes throughout the city, is currently working its way through the Planning Department. More information, including an interactive map of the proposal, is available on the Planning Department’s website.
A new toy and hobby store, Just for Fun, is coming to 2185 Fillmore, the storied space most recently occupied by Mudpie, now moved to a smaller space a few doors down. It’s most famously the longtime home of Fillamento, the still-fondly-remembered design emporium that launched the renaissance of Fillmore Street back in the 1980s.
Michelle O’Connor, who acquired the original Just For Fun store on 24th Street in Noe Valley during the pandemic, is on a mission to bring toy stores back to San Francisco. She’s already opened a second location at 1957 Union Street. Fillmore — expected to open in October — will be the third. The local, family-owned retailer will feature a variety of toys, puzzles and games for all ages, plus art supplies, homewares and pop-up events including book signings and in-store concerts. O’Connor, originally from England, says owning a toy store has its challenges for a mother of two: She has to ration the toys she takes home, just to keep things manageable.
Coming soon to the Clay? Two different operators are said to be vying to reopen the Clay Theater. Mystery investor Neil Mehta, who has bought a number of buildings on Fillmore Street this year, and his team are expected to announce the news as early as October. The theater’s protected status raises questions about whether a cafe can be incorporated into the space and whether the number of seats in the theater will be reduced. Stay tuned. … Mehta’s right-hand man Cody Allen, like his boss a neighborhood resident, is rumored to be forthcoming soon with details about their plans for the buildings they’ve acquired this year on Fillmore Street. Let’s hope that includes good news for La Mediterranee, the beloved eatery at 2210 Fillmore, whose owners have gone public with their frustrations over extending their lease.
Also coming to Fillmore: Catbird, the Brooklyn-based jewelry brand, is opening on September 18 at 2124 Fillmore. The brand, which promises “jewelry as poetry,” already has stores in Los Angeles, New York, Boston and Washington, D.C. … Construction has begun to convert the ex-Bank of America space at 2310 Fillmore into a branch of Citibank. … And construction is finally underway on a renovated Palmer’s — potentially reopening as soon as November — on the corner of Fillmore and Clay. The “Peet’s to Palmer’s” crowd is ready to celebrate.
Hail and farewell: Pascal Rigo’s Apizza, at 2043 Fillmore, is gone and won’t be coming back to Fillmore, where it started. Instead, it’s opening a new location on Divisadero Street, along with a Loving Cup frozen yogurt shop. Rigo also owns Loving Cup, as well as his original La Boulangerie on Pine Street. … Longtime local favorite Ten-Ichi, the Japanese restaurant and sushi bar at 2235 Fillmore, will hold a closing party on September 21. The final day at the current location is September 30. The owners are raising money to fund a move elsewhere.
Hola Rosa Mexicana: Neighborhood favorite TacoBar, on the corner of Fillmore and California, has reopened after a freshening-up inside and out and a stylish new gray and Mexican pink paint job. … Now when can we expect some attention to the rest of that wonderful old building — especially the long-ignored clock on this key corner?
Upcoming local events: Join Friends of Lafayette Park for a free screening of Mrs. Doubtfire in Lafayette Park on September 15 at 7 p.m. Bring a blanket. … Celebrate Godzilla’s 70th anniversary in Japantown with a three-day festival from September 13 to 15, featuring movie screenings, Godzilla cosplay and more. More details at Bay Area Film Events. … Farther down the street, Sunday Streets comes to the neighborhood on September 22 from 12 to 5 p.m. on Golden Gate Avenue between Laguna and Webster. Streets will be closed in the area. … And a Scent Stroll on Fillmore — now being called Fragrance Row, for its numerous scent shops — is said to be in the works.
Cynthia Traina is a longtime Fillmore resident and an agent with Vantage Realty San Francisco. Send items for Street Talk to CT@cynthiatraina.com.
AFTER 60 YEARS of ownership by the Politz family, D&M Wine and Liquor at 2200 Fillmore has been sold to former manager Kyle Nadeau and his partners.
“It’s been a long time coming,” says Mike Politz, who has worked in the store, with a few interruptions, since he had to stand on a milk crate to reach the register. His father, Joe Politz, started the dynasty. For the last 28 years, Joe’s son Mike and his wife Karen have owned and operated D&M. “I’ve put my whole life into it. We’ve done our thing. We’re passing the torch on to another family.”
Nadeau joined the D&M crew in 2006 and worked his way up to store manager. But he had an itch to do more. In 2017 he converted the nearby London Market at Divisadero and Sacramento into Maison Corbeaux, part of a venture with a private downtown club.
“I got in my head I wanted to do something else,” Nadeau said of leaving D&M to eventually open another shop four blocks away.
But he kept in touch, and the friendship resumed. He has specialized more in wine and beer, and D&M has maintained its focus as a premier champagne house, with a renowned selection of single malt Scotch and other spirits.
Both stores will remain much the same, with all of the current staff continuing. Kyle Nadeau will return to Fillmore Street and D&M. New partner Dave Osborne, who has a long history in the world of spirits, will lead the Divisadero shop, which will now be known again as the London Market. Avid whiskey collector Jonathan Powers is the third partner.
“It’s something I’m really excited about,” says Nadeau, now older and wiser. “I know the neighborhood. I am so thankful to the people in the neighborhood.”
Says Mike Politz, whose family has been synonymous with D&M: “He’s coming back home. It’s one big full circle.”
At long last, SVRN (pronounced “Sovereign”) has opened its doors at 1928 Fillmore Street. This sleek high-end men’s and gender-fluid clothing boutique boasts a curated selection of top brands like Jacquemus, Rick Owens and Comme des Garçons.
It’s the second outpost from Chicago-based, Korean-American founder David Kim. The former Prana space was gutted and redesigned by Seoul “spatial design” firm WGNB with a minimalist interior. While the Chicago store features stainless steel walls, the Fillmore shop adds color in the shade of oxidized copper that mimics the Statue of Liberty.
Stepping inside, shoppers will be greeted by a small but highly curated selection of fashion-forward clothing, unique furniture and objects from the likes of Korean designer Subin Mae, plus a fragrance collection. Don’t miss the unique changing room, featuring a preserved plant bouquet hanging from the ceiling.
Unveiling the magical: At 1967 Sutter, the dark glass front blocks views of the interior and ominously provides no more information than “by appointment only.” It’s the new home of Mythrium, a private tattoo studio and art collective. Drawing inspiration from the fantastical, the studio evokes a Harry Potter-esque atmosphere with mystical touches. Established by three talented immigrant women artists, Mythrium is decorated with Victorian furniture, Egyptian totems and stained-glass accents set against forest green walls. Walk-ins aren’t accepted, but curious neighbors can peek into this artistic haven on its website.
Celebrating 150 years: St. Dominic’s Church on August 5 marked 150 years since the Dominican parish was founded in the neighborhood. The magnificent Gothic stone church was rebuilt after the 1906 earthquake, the flying buttresses added after the 1989 quake. It’s currently undergoing roofing and further restoration. St. Dominic’s was named the most beautiful church in the U.S. upon its completion in 1928 and remains a San Francisco landmark.
Cook like a chef: While the beloved Out the Door restaurant at 2232 Bush Street may be gone, the building holds a unique opportunity upstairs in the former family home of chef Charles Phan, whose empire once included the vaunted Slanted Door at the Ferry Building. His home kitchen is equipped with restaurant-quality appliances including a grill, gas burners and an industrial dishwasher that runs a full cycle in fewer than five minutes. The industrial chic loft home, designed by starchitect Olle Lundberg, has 3 bedrooms, 3 1/2 baths, a private roof deck and parking. The main floor remains a restaurant space, now home to Mattina restaurant. For $5.5 million, you can own both.
One door down, the commercial building 2224 Bush Street is also for sale. The classic Victorian was home to Unity Church for decades, and more recently home to Liberty Cannabis.
A star is reborn: Chefs David and Serena Fisher’s 7 Adams, at 1963 Sutter, has gained a following and glowing reviews since opening last fall. Now it’s going to get a lot harder to get a reservation. Their “signature magic,” was just anointed a Michelin star. The Michelin Guide says the duo “expertly blends Californian simplicity with refined technique. By emphasizing thoughtful flavor combinations, the chefs showcase the finest seasonal ingredients.”
New dining options: The neighborhood’s culinary scene continues to evolve with the arrival of two additions near Japantown.
Aji Kiji: Located in the former Avery spot at 1552 Fillmore, Aji Kiji offers premium take-out sushi from a warm and woody minimalist space. Chef and co-owner Jinwoong Lim, who also owns Bansang next door, oversees the menu. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., or until they sell out.
Sobakatsu: This eight-seat eatery is receiving rave reviews for its housemade soba noodles crafted from organic, stone-ground Japanese buckwheat. It’s in the thin slice of space at 1700 Laguna and open daily from noon to 7 p.m.
Nailed it: Fillmore has more polish these days. In July the House of Nails opened at 1908 Fillmore, and in early August Look at Me Salon opened at 2424 California. Its new green home is the second location for this L.A.-based company, which specializes in Russian manicures, pedicures and eyelash extensions.
Mark your calendar: Don’t miss the upcoming events in the neighborhood:
Sept. 7: Fillmore merchants Art Walk, with art, music along the street.
Sept. 13-15: Godzilla Festival, celebrating 70 years of the legendary kaiju in Japantown.
Cynthia Traina is a longtime Fillmore resident and an agent with Vantage Realty San Francisco. Send items for Street Talk to CT@cynthiatraina.com.
Fillmore is the beating heart of the neighborhood — the crossroads of a vibrant and welcoming community created by the people who live and work here. The epidemic of loneliness said to be rampant in the U.S. is not to be found near Fillmore Street.
The town square: Start your day, as many do, at Peet’s Coffee, the undisputed social hub of the street. Here regulars like Chris and his dog Wolvi gather daily for coffee and conversation, ranging from neighborhood updates to heated political debates. Chris explains the vibe at Peet’s: “It’s Main Street meets Sinclair Lewis.” Favorite current topics include what should happen with the Clay Theater and the story behind Palmer’s extended closure. … Anchalee, who took over as manager of Peet’s after the pandemic, carries the torch lit by her predecessor, Eric, ensuring a welcoming environment for all. Grab a cup of coffee, sit on the bench in front and join the conversation. … Early birds rejoice: Peet’s is again serving coffee as early as 5:30 a.m.
How to meet your neighbors: Wheelhouse Clay Studio, the new ceramics studio at Sutter and Pierce, strives to create community through clay. Wheelhouse is run by a group of women instructors and was launched by Alden Enriquez, a Filipina artist who studied at San Francisco State University, where she graduated with honors in ceramics and art history. The studio offers a library of ceramic resources and plans to introduce scholarships and community programs. Trained ceramicists can become members. All teachers are trained artists, ensuring high-quality instruction. … Or connect with other knitters at a class at Atelier Yarns on Divisadero Street, or by taking painting, fashion and craft classes at Honey Art Studio at 1981 Sutter Street.
Local stores also bring the community together. Check out The Finerie’s website to join their speaking events and trunk shows (champagne is served!). … Or join the LuluLemon running club each Thursday at 5:45 p.m.
Community clean-ups through Refuse Refuse offer another way to connect with neighbors. The weekly clean-ups start at popular spots including Compton’s, Social Study and Pinsa Rossa and culminate in post-cleanup social gatherings over drinks. … Lend a hand and connect with neighbors at the Neighborhood Beautification Day slated for July 20, starting at Sherman Elementary School on Union Street.
Neighborhood libraries offer other opportunities to connect. The Western Addition Library has a calendar of events for all ages, from author talks and book clubs to hands-on workshops including smoothie-making and embroidery. … The Presidio Library fosters a love of reading in younger residents with its dedicated children’s room. … And there’s no more beautiful reading room in town than the oval Golden Gate Library on Green Street.
A new mural in the ’hood: Fillmore’s iconic goldfish mural is gone, but Crossroads Trading has filled the void with a vibrant new mural on its Bush Street side. It’s by Brijean Murphy (above), and it celebrates the fashion and the jazz scene. Murphy, a multi-disciplinary artist, is also making waves with her partner, Doug Stuart. Their new album, “Marco,” was recently featured on NPR and they’re gearing up for a nationwide tour.
New on the street: Fillmore continues to attract new businesses, with House of Nails taking over the former Drybar space at 1908 Fillmore. … Ministry of Scent, birthed on Valencia, has opened a second location at 2408 Fillmore. It offers niche fragrances from around the world and adds to Fillmore’s growing reputation as Perfume Row.
Emily Winston, founder of Boichik’s bagels, has had an appetite for the former Glaze location at Fillmore and Pine for more than a year. Her persistence paid, and she was on the scene on June 18 to launch the local Boichik’s with a free bagel day. The neighbors have been lining up ever since every day from 7 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Boichik’s chewy, malty bagels are made fresh in Berkeley, where they bake 35,000 bagels a day.
Upcoming events: Enjoy the free music experience at Kokoro Soul, with a performance by Audiopharmacy on July 13 at Hotel Kabuki. … Don’t miss the 50th anniversary of the Nihonmachi Street Fair in Japantown, featuring music, dance and artisan booths, on August 3 and 4.
Cynthia Traina is a longtime Fillmore resident and an agent with Vantage Realty San Francisco. Send items for Street Talk to CT@cynthiatraina.com.
Step into Ministry of Scent, the newest addition to Fillmore Street’s burgeoning Perfume Row, and inhale. That first whiff may be a symphony of disparate yet appealing notes, or one unwavering deep and delightful tone you can’t quite put your finger on.
Either way, you’ll find this new shop at 2408 Fillmore both an adventure and an education.
First opened a decade ago as Tigerlily on Valencia Street by co-owner Antonia Kohl — and since rechristened the Ministry of Scent — this bijou black and white showcase is a smaller sister shop. The Ministry has been a passion project from the start, driven by Kohl’s own obsession with niche and indie scents. An avid collector, she realized that any trip she took would find her on the hunt for yet another unusual perfume.
In 2014 she took the leap, leaving her work in integrative design and taking a deep dive into the world of scent, opening Tigerlily. She bet on her love of niche perfumes and made that the shop’s focus. In gathering her stock, she passed over ubiquitous designer scents for independent perfumers who brought their distinctly personal tastes into play when crafting niche, often quirky, perfumes.
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After six and a half years as solo owner, Kohl teamed with formally trained perfumer Ineke Rühland, creator of the IneKE line of perfumes. Together they transformed Tigerlily into Ministry of Scent, expanding their reach with a considerably larger choice of indie scent houses and individual perfumers. Among the shop’s selection of 80-plus lines are those headed by totally self-taught scent crafters and others, like Rühland, who have deep formal training and years of industry work informing their creations. The inspirations for these perfumes range from the obvious to the wildly obscure, some encompassing entire fantasy worlds from which their scent tales spring.
Take Imaginary Authors. The foundation of this line and source of its scent names is a collection of novels, none of which actually exist, all “written” by imaginary authors. The title of each book hints at the structure of the scent housed in a box made to look like a book. Lined up, the entire collection resembles a custom-bound library, each volume the story of a place or experience held in the bottle within.
A City On Fire, Imaginary Author’s industry-award winning scent, stands you solidly in the midst of a conflagration. Dark, decidedly smoky, it is both the match that lit the fire and the smoke billowing around you. My tastes lean toward the woodsy-smoky realm, so the idea of this perfume grabbed me immediately. That first spritz did not disappoint; this is a burnt match/smothered campfire delight, just the slightest bit bitter, but pleasantly so. It holds fast to its fiery theme for at least an hour, and then, still smoky, slowly begins to caramelize, holding the smoke profile all along. It dwindles very slowly; the next morning there was the tiniest pinpoint of vaguely sweet caramel in its place.
Venturing into co-owner Ineke Rühland’s eponymous IneKE line took me on a lovely, meandering stroll from garden to shore to high-desert forest. These are all places beloved by Rühland and she brings the full force of her Versaille-trained, industry-honed skills into play to capture them in the bottle.
Her Idyllwild scent celebrates California’s high desert enclave in the dusty upper reaches of Riverside’s San Jacinto Mountains. Notes of Douglas fir and pine mark the resinous hit of forest made sharper by the desert sun, and sage brings in the leafy, dusty notes that come to life as you hike the hills. Rhubarb unites this all with a gentle citrusy tang right through the middle. And just below dust and fir forest, the scent retains a bright, gently green note that both comforts and urges you on.
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For all its serious scent-aficionado wares, the Ministry invites exploration in a relaxed and welcoming way. The staff, a group of four self-professed “scent nerds,” are at their happiest pulling samples from the simplest prompts. If all you know is that you like lavender, say the word and they will quickly gather four lavender-forward fragrances. If amber is your jam, manager Michael Ryan will show you amber woven into forms you never knew it could take. This is one place where it helps not to be too certain about what you want, because there is so much to discover, and so much of it delights.
“We looked for a long time on Fillmore Street, and the small, welcoming spot we found is perfect for us,” says Kohl. “This is such a beautiful stretch of an altogether welcoming neighborhood. We are just so happy to be here.”
I can honestly say, from watching the shoppers who lingered to sample and sniff, the delight is mutual.
Fillmore’s Perfume Row
Follow your nose down Fillmore Street’s Perfume Row.
Aesop | Australian import offering luxe proprietary skincare products, home and body fragrances, 2450 Fillmore.
Ministry of Scent | New to Fillmore, an S.F. original known for its wide selection of niche and indie scent houses, 2408 Fillmore.
Le Labo | French perfumer selling proprietary perfumes and home scents, 2238 Fillmore.
Credo Beauty | A small national chain focusing on a “clean” line of all-natural scents and beauty care, 2136 Fillmore.
Diptyque Fillmore | Paris-born scent house known for proprietary candles, perfumes and candle-related decor, 2122 Fillmore.
Byredo | Swedish perfumer popular with fashionistas offering high-end beauty products, 2000 Fillmore.
To step into Yury’s Lights & Beyond is to enter a palace of lights, a dazzling collection of one-of-a-kind sconces, mid-century Italian floor lamps and ornate crystal chandeliers overhead. But if you care to look a little closer, you’ll also find a truly impressive showcase of accessories, from gracefully shaped fabric shades to specialty bulbs to colorful glass finials.
The name is apt, for the shop at 1849 Divisadero Street offers much more than lamps for sale. Proprietor Yury Budovlya is also a master restoration artist, capable of bringing antique chandeliers and broken lamps back to glowing form with a skilled craftsman’s hand. Working dutifully from the back corner of his shop, amid an organized chaos of cords, switches, and lightbulbs, he spends his days deconstructing, diagnosing, and revitalizing lighting fixtures of all kinds.
An immigrant from Ukraine who had previously worked in a metal fabrication factory, Yury and his family came to San Francisco in 1989 looking for a new life. He found himself searching for a job with limited English and no job leads, but a wealth of determination. In those first uncertain months, he found Light House Lighting on Geary, whose owner saw that Yury was adept with a wire and socket and hired him on the spot.
It was an act of generosity Yury has never forgotten, and the start of a new life in lights.
After 13 years of learning the ins and outs of lighting sales and repair, Yury took a bold step and opened his own shop in 2003, just as his previous manager at Light House Lighting was looking to retire. Starting with four empty walls in a former antique store on Divisadero, he built Yury’s Lights & Beyond into a haven for all things lighting.
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Since then, Yury’s unwavering dedication to his craft and his customers has earned him a loyal clientele, from local residents to high-end designers. He’s seen the neighborhood and his own industry change, which he accepts with grace and a dash of nostalgia. As with fast fashion and fast tech, lighting fixtures have also become more expendable, despite the shift to energy efficient LED bulbs. The lighting fixtures themselves, he explains, are designed to be replaced rather than repaired: “You just have to throw it away and buy a new one.” In contrast, older lamps, even those from the early 1900s, can be repaired and fitted with modern LED bulbs, offering both longevity and sustainability.
It’s taken Yury his whole life to build up the knowledge and skills he applies to each unique piece. “Even today, sometimes people bring in challenging questions,” he says. “I have to think: What do I do, and how do I do it?” As the shop’s sole full-time employee, there’s a risk that this knowledge will be lost when he retires. He does have a part-time assistant who helps with customers’ orders. For now he’s unsure if the shop will find an apprentice, but he’s willing to teach his ways to the right person.
One thing he does know: He’s not ready to give up the joys of his work just yet. A recent job found him fixing a lamp a customer brought in; it was for the nursery she’d been preparing for her new baby. After upgrading the lamp with a three-way light bulb and soft white shade, Yury says, the customer was so happy that she told him she would think of him whenever she turned on the light to see her baby. To Yury, who is a family man himself, comments like these “are like gold,” he says.
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And so, the shop on Divisadero will stay lit for the foreseeable future. More than a retail and repair shop, Yury’s Lights & Beyond is a testament to the enduring value of craftsmanship in a city on the cutting edge of technology and automation — and a gentle reminder to pause and appreciate the stories of our city’s hardest-working business owners.
This article is part of a series produced by reThinkRepair, a grassroots group that has interviewed and photographed 40+ local repair businesses since 2018. Composed of a small team of eco-conscious San Franciscans, reThinkRepair celebrates the art of preservation by sharing stories of local repair shops with the broader community.