THIS LAVISH oversized limited edition book brings together a collection of favorite photographs and stories from the pages of the New Fillmore. It tells the story of an ever-changing small town in the big city with a rich history and a strong sense of community.
Available exclusively at Browser Books on Fillmore, or order online.
THIS DOCUMENTARY — filmed entirely on Fillmore Street — tells the story of longtime Fillmore resident Kelly Johnson, who used a new California law to end his life on his own terms.
Billionaire’s Row has witnessed yet another record-breaking sale. The property at 2799 Broadway, which had been on and off the market since October 2019, with an initial asking price of $39 million, finally closed in August for just over $29 million. The new owners acquired the 11,600-square-foot home for $2,505 per square foot — a significant discount compared to the neighboring property at 2840 Broadway, which sold last month for an astonishing $4,107 per square foot.
For those still looking to buy on Outer Broadway, opportunities remain. The property at 2990 Broadway, which once made national headlines for its $38 million price tag, is still on the market. And 2898 Broadway, the location of this year’s Designer Showcase, has seen a $3 million price cut and is now listed at $29 million. It has been on the market for over a year.
Also on the market for $29 million: the penthouse at 2006 Washington, on Lafayette Park.
In contrast, the smallest single-family home sold in August was a charming Victorian at 1807 Scott. The 1,057-square-foot, one-bedroom, one-bath gem, located near the S.F. Tennis Club, has no garage, but featured a generous walk-out deck. It was snapped up after just five days on the market for $1.2 million.
Cynthia Traina is an agent with Vantage Realty San Francisco. Contact her at CT@cynthiatraina.com.
Photographs of WatchCenter in Cow Hollow by Sharon Beals
By NIKKI COLLISTER
A good watch can last a lifetime, and beyond.
That’s the philosophy behind WatchCenter, the boutique watch and repair shop located at 2030 Union Street, near Fillmore. Business partners Filippo Meduri and Benjamin Chapman should know, since they’ve been working with watches for most of their lives.
“If you have a $2,000 watch, you want to take care of it,” says Meduri. “You don’t just buy another one — that’d be a waste.” That sentiment extends beyond luxury brands like Patek Philippe or Rolex. Most well-crafted timepieces can last decades if properly maintained.
A preference for longevity — and a family history of watchmaking — has made this Meduri’s life’s work.
AT THE TOP of Fillmore Street, the renovation of a penthouse is nearly complete. An art treasure is coming home. VIDEO by Jonathan Pontell for The New Fillmore.
The Fillmore fixture has been sold to a former employee and his partners.
AFTER 60 YEARS of ownership by the Politz family, D&M Wine and Liquor at 2200 Fillmore has been sold to former manager Kyle Nadeau and his partners.
“It’s been a long time coming,” says Mike Politz, who has worked in the store, with a few interruptions, since he had to stand on a milk crate to reach the register. His father, Joe Politz, started the dynasty. For the last 28 years, Joe’s son Mike and his wife Karen have owned and operated D&M. “I’ve put my whole life into it. We’ve done our thing. We’re passing the torch on to another family.”
Nadeau joined the D&M crew in 2006 and worked his way up to store manager. But he had an itch to do more. In 2017 he converted the nearby London Market at Divisadero and Sacramento into Maison Corbeaux, part of a venture with a private downtown club.
“I got in my head I wanted to do something else,” Nadeau said of leaving D&M to eventually open another shop four blocks away.
But he kept in touch, and the friendship resumed. He has specialized more in wine and beer, and D&M has maintained its focus as a premier champagne house, with a renowned selection of single malt Scotch and other spirits.
Both stores will remain much the same, with all of the current staff continuing. Kyle Nadeau will return to Fillmore Street and D&M. New partner Dave Osborne, who has a long history in the world of spirits, will lead the Divisadero shop, which will now be known again as the London Market. Avid whiskey collector Jonathan Powers is the third partner.
“It’s something I’m really excited about,” says Nadeau, now older and wiser. “I know the neighborhood. I am so thankful to the people in the neighborhood.”
Says Mike Politz, whose family has been synonymous with D&M: “He’s coming back home. It’s one big full circle.”
SVRN’s sleek new shop brings high-end men’s and gender-fluid fashions to Fillmore.
STREET TALK | CYNTHIA TRAINA
At long last, SVRN (pronounced “Sovereign”) has opened its doors at 1928 Fillmore Street. This sleek high-end men’s and gender-fluid clothing boutique boasts a curated selection of top brands like Jacquemus, Rick Owens and Comme des Garçons.
It’s the second outpost from Chicago-based, Korean-American founder David Kim. The former Prana space was gutted and redesigned by Seoul “spatial design” firm WGNB with a minimalist interior. While the Chicago store features stainless steel walls, the Fillmore shop adds color in the shade of oxidized copper that mimics the Statue of Liberty.
Stepping inside, shoppers will be greeted by a small but highly curated selection of fashion-forward clothing, unique furniture and objects from the likes of Korean designer Subin Mae, plus a fragrance collection. Don’t miss the unique changing room, featuring a preserved plant bouquet hanging from the ceiling.
Unveiling the magical: At 1967 Sutter, the dark glass front blocks views of the interior and ominously provides no more information than “by appointment only.” It’s the new home of Mythrium, a private tattoo studio and art collective. Drawing inspiration from the fantastical, the studio evokes a Harry Potter-esque atmosphere with mystical touches. Established by three talented immigrant women artists, Mythrium is decorated with Victorian furniture, Egyptian totems and stained-glass accents set against forest green walls. Walk-ins aren’t accepted, but curious neighbors can peek into this artistic haven on its website.
Father Michael Hurley confronts himself at the St. Dominic’s celebration.
Celebrating 150 years: St. Dominic’s Church on August 5 marked 150 years since the Dominican parish was founded in the neighborhood. The magnificent Gothic stone church was rebuilt after the 1906 earthquake, the flying buttresses added after the 1989 quake. It’s currently undergoing roofing and further restoration. St. Dominic’s was named the most beautiful church in the U.S. upon its completion in 1928 and remains a San Francisco landmark.
Cook like a chef: While the beloved Out the Door restaurant at 2232 Bush Street may be gone, the building holds a unique opportunity upstairs in the former family home of chef Charles Phan, whose empire once included the vaunted Slanted Door at the Ferry Building. His home kitchen is equipped with restaurant-quality appliances including a grill, gas burners and an industrial dishwasher that runs a full cycle in fewer than five minutes. The industrial chic loft home, designed by starchitect Olle Lundberg, has 3 bedrooms, 3 1/2 baths, a private roof deck and parking. The main floor remains a restaurant space, now home to Mattina restaurant. For $5.5 million, you can own both.
One door down, the commercial building 2224 Bush Street is also for sale. The classic Victorian was home to Unity Church for decades, and more recently home to Liberty Cannabis.
A star is reborn: Chefs David and Serena Fisher’s 7 Adams, at 1963 Sutter, has gained a following and glowing reviews since opening last fall. Now it’s going to get a lot harder to get a reservation. Their “signature magic,” was just anointed a Michelin star. The Michelin Guide says the duo “expertly blends Californian simplicity with refined technique. By emphasizing thoughtful flavor combinations, the chefs showcase the finest seasonal ingredients.”
Premium take-out sushi is now available at Aji Kiji.
New dining options: The neighborhood’s culinary scene continues to evolve with the arrival of two additions near Japantown.
Aji Kiji: Located in the former Avery spot at 1552 Fillmore, Aji Kiji offers premium take-out sushi from a warm and woody minimalist space. Chef and co-owner Jinwoong Lim, who also owns Bansang next door, oversees the menu. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., or until they sell out.
Sobakatsu: This eight-seat eatery is receiving rave reviews for its housemade soba noodles crafted from organic, stone-ground Japanese buckwheat. It’s in the thin slice of space at 1700 Laguna and open daily from noon to 7 p.m.
Nailed it: Fillmore has more polish these days. In July the House of Nails opened at 1908 Fillmore, and in early August Look at Me Salon opened at 2424 California. Its new green home is the second location for this L.A.-based company, which specializes in Russian manicures, pedicures and eyelash extensions.
Mark your calendar: Don’t miss the upcoming events in the neighborhood:
Sept. 7: Fillmore merchants Art Walk, with art, music along the street.
Sept. 13-15: Godzilla Festival, celebrating 70 years of the legendary kaiju in Japantown.
Cynthia Traina is a longtime Fillmore resident and an agent with Vantage Realty San Francisco. Send items for Street Talk to CT@cynthiatraina.com.
Wheelhouse Clay Studio is a new ceramics studio at Sutter and Pierce.
STREET TALK | CYNTHIA TRAINA
Fillmore is the beating heart of the neighborhood — the crossroads of a vibrant and welcoming community created by the people who live and work here. The epidemic of loneliness said to be rampant in the U.S. is not to be found near Fillmore Street.
The town square: Start your day, as many do, at Peet’s Coffee, the undisputed social hub of the street. Here regulars like Chris and his dog Wolvi gather daily for coffee and conversation, ranging from neighborhood updates to heated political debates. Chris explains the vibe at Peet’s: “It’s Main Street meets Sinclair Lewis.” Favorite current topics include what should happen with the Clay Theater and the story behind Palmer’s extended closure. … Anchalee, who took over as manager of Peet’s after the pandemic, carries the torch lit by her predecessor, Eric, ensuring a welcoming environment for all. Grab a cup of coffee, sit on the bench in front and join the conversation. … Early birds rejoice: Peet’s is again serving coffee as early as 5:30 a.m.
How to meet your neighbors: Wheelhouse Clay Studio, the new ceramics studio at Sutter and Pierce, strives to create community through clay. Wheelhouse is run by a group of women instructors and was launched by Alden Enriquez, a Filipina artist who studied at San Francisco State University, where she graduated with honors in ceramics and art history. The studio offers a library of ceramic resources and plans to introduce scholarships and community programs. Trained ceramicists can become members. All teachers are trained artists, ensuring high-quality instruction. … Or connect with other knitters at a class at Atelier Yarns on Divisadero Street, or by taking painting, fashion and craft classes at Honey Art Studio at 1981 Sutter Street.
Local stores also bring the community together. Check out The Finerie’s website to join their speaking events and trunk shows (champagne is served!). … Or join the LuluLemon running club each Thursday at 5:45 p.m.
Community clean-ups through Refuse Refuse offer another way to connect with neighbors. The weekly clean-ups start at popular spots including Compton’s, Social Study and Pinsa Rossa and culminate in post-cleanup social gatherings over drinks. … Lend a hand and connect with neighbors at the Neighborhood Beautification Day slated for July 20, starting at Sherman Elementary School on Union Street.
Neighborhood libraries offer other opportunities to connect. The Western Addition Library has a calendar of events for all ages, from author talks and book clubs to hands-on workshops including smoothie-making and embroidery. … The Presidio Library fosters a love of reading in younger residents with its dedicated children’s room. … And there’s no more beautiful reading room in town than the oval Golden Gate Library on Green Street.
A new mural in the ’hood: Fillmore’s iconic goldfish mural is gone, but Crossroads Trading has filled the void with a vibrant new mural on its Bush Street side. It’s by Brijean Murphy (above), and it celebrates the fashion and the jazz scene. Murphy, a multi-disciplinary artist, is also making waves with her partner, Doug Stuart. Their new album, “Marco,” was recently featured on NPR and they’re gearing up for a nationwide tour.
New on the street: Fillmore continues to attract new businesses, with House of Nails taking over the former Drybar space at 1908 Fillmore. … Ministry of Scent, birthed on Valencia, has opened a second location at 2408 Fillmore. It offers niche fragrances from around the world and adds to Fillmore’s growing reputation as Perfume Row.
Emily Winston, founder of Boichik’s bagels, has had an appetite for the former Glaze location at Fillmore and Pine for more than a year. Her persistence paid, and she was on the scene on June 18 to launch the local Boichik’s with a free bagel day. The neighbors have been lining up ever since every day from 7 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Boichik’s chewy, malty bagels are made fresh in Berkeley, where they bake 35,000 bagels a day.
Upcoming events: Enjoy the free music experience at Kokoro Soul, with a performance by Audiopharmacy on July 13 at Hotel Kabuki. … Don’t miss the 50th anniversary of the Nihonmachi Street Fair in Japantown, featuring music, dance and artisan booths, on August 3 and 4.
Cynthia Traina is a longtime Fillmore resident and an agent with Vantage Realty San Francisco. Send items for Street Talk to CT@cynthiatraina.com.
Ministry of Scent’s stylish shop is located at 2408 Fillmore Street.
By SHELLEY HANDLER
Step into Ministry of Scent, the newest addition to Fillmore Street’s burgeoning Perfume Row, and inhale. That first whiff may be a symphony of disparate yet appealing notes, or one unwavering deep and delightful tone you can’t quite put your finger on.
Either way, you’ll find this new shop at 2408 Fillmore both an adventure and an education.
First opened a decade ago as Tigerlily on Valencia Street by co-owner Antonia Kohl — and since rechristened the Ministry of Scent — this bijou black and white showcase is a smaller sister shop. The Ministry has been a passion project from the start, driven by Kohl’s own obsession with niche and indie scents. An avid collector, she realized that any trip she took would find her on the hunt for yet another unusual perfume.
In 2014 she took the leap, leaving her work in integrative design and taking a deep dive into the world of scent, opening Tigerlily. She bet on her love of niche perfumes and made that the shop’s focus. In gathering her stock, she passed over ubiquitous designer scents for independent perfumers who brought their distinctly personal tastes into play when crafting niche, often quirky, perfumes.
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After six and a half years as solo owner, Kohl teamed with formally trained perfumer Ineke Rühland, creator of the IneKE line of perfumes. Together they transformed Tigerlily into Ministry of Scent, expanding their reach with a considerably larger choice of indie scent houses and individual perfumers. Among the shop’s selection of 80-plus lines are those headed by totally self-taught scent crafters and others, like Rühland, who have deep formal training and years of industry work informing their creations. The inspirations for these perfumes range from the obvious to the wildly obscure, some encompassing entire fantasy worlds from which their scent tales spring.
Take Imaginary Authors. The foundation of this line and source of its scent names is a collection of novels, none of which actually exist, all “written” by imaginary authors. The title of each book hints at the structure of the scent housed in a box made to look like a book. Lined up, the entire collection resembles a custom-bound library, each volume the story of a place or experience held in the bottle within.
A City On Fire, Imaginary Author’s industry-award winning scent, stands you solidly in the midst of a conflagration. Dark, decidedly smoky, it is both the match that lit the fire and the smoke billowing around you. My tastes lean toward the woodsy-smoky realm, so the idea of this perfume grabbed me immediately. That first spritz did not disappoint; this is a burnt match/smothered campfire delight, just the slightest bit bitter, but pleasantly so. It holds fast to its fiery theme for at least an hour, and then, still smoky, slowly begins to caramelize, holding the smoke profile all along. It dwindles very slowly; the next morning there was the tiniest pinpoint of vaguely sweet caramel in its place.
Venturing into co-owner Ineke Rühland’s eponymous IneKE line took me on a lovely, meandering stroll from garden to shore to high-desert forest. These are all places beloved by Rühland and she brings the full force of her Versaille-trained, industry-honed skills into play to capture them in the bottle.
Her Idyllwild scent celebrates California’s high desert enclave in the dusty upper reaches of Riverside’s San Jacinto Mountains. Notes of Douglas fir and pine mark the resinous hit of forest made sharper by the desert sun, and sage brings in the leafy, dusty notes that come to life as you hike the hills. Rhubarb unites this all with a gentle citrusy tang right through the middle. And just below dust and fir forest, the scent retains a bright, gently green note that both comforts and urges you on.
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For all its serious scent-aficionado wares, the Ministry invites exploration in a relaxed and welcoming way. The staff, a group of four self-professed “scent nerds,” are at their happiest pulling samples from the simplest prompts. If all you know is that you like lavender, say the word and they will quickly gather four lavender-forward fragrances. If amber is your jam, manager Michael Ryan will show you amber woven into forms you never knew it could take. This is one place where it helps not to be too certain about what you want, because there is so much to discover, and so much of it delights.
“We looked for a long time on Fillmore Street, and the small, welcoming spot we found is perfect for us,” says Kohl. “This is such a beautiful stretch of an altogether welcoming neighborhood. We are just so happy to be here.”
I can honestly say, from watching the shoppers who lingered to sample and sniff, the delight is mutual.
Fillmore’s Perfume Row
Follow your nose down Fillmore Street’s Perfume Row.
Aesop | Australian import offering luxe proprietary skincare products, home and body fragrances, 2450 Fillmore.
Ministry of Scent | New to Fillmore, an S.F. original known for its wide selection of niche and indie scent houses, 2408 Fillmore.
Le Labo | French perfumer selling proprietary perfumes and home scents, 2238 Fillmore.
Credo Beauty | A small national chain focusing on a “clean” line of all-natural scents and beauty care, 2136 Fillmore.
Diptyque Fillmore | Paris-born scent house known for proprietary candles, perfumes and candle-related decor, 2122 Fillmore.
Byredo | Swedish perfumer popular with fashionistas offering high-end beauty products, 2000 Fillmore.
Photograph of Yury Budovlya in his workshop by Sharon Beals
By NIKKI COLLISTER
To step into Yury’s Lights & Beyond is to enter a palace of lights, a dazzling collection of one-of-a-kind sconces, mid-century Italian floor lamps and ornate crystal chandeliers overhead. But if you care to look a little closer, you’ll also find a truly impressive showcase of accessories, from gracefully shaped fabric shades to specialty bulbs to colorful glass finials.
The name is apt, for the shop at 1849 Divisadero Street offers much more than lamps for sale. Proprietor Yury Budovlya is also a master restoration artist, capable of bringing antique chandeliers and broken lamps back to glowing form with a skilled craftsman’s hand. Working dutifully from the back corner of his shop, amid an organized chaos of cords, switches, and lightbulbs, he spends his days deconstructing, diagnosing, and revitalizing lighting fixtures of all kinds.
An immigrant from Ukraine who had previously worked in a metal fabrication factory, Yury and his family came to San Francisco in 1989 looking for a new life. He found himself searching for a job with limited English and no job leads, but a wealth of determination. In those first uncertain months, he found Light House Lighting on Geary, whose owner saw that Yury was adept with a wire and socket and hired him on the spot.
It was an act of generosity Yury has never forgotten, and the start of a new life in lights.
After 13 years of learning the ins and outs of lighting sales and repair, Yury took a bold step and opened his own shop in 2003, just as his previous manager at Light House Lighting was looking to retire. Starting with four empty walls in a former antique store on Divisadero, he built Yury’s Lights & Beyond into a haven for all things lighting.
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Since then, Yury’s unwavering dedication to his craft and his customers has earned him a loyal clientele, from local residents to high-end designers. He’s seen the neighborhood and his own industry change, which he accepts with grace and a dash of nostalgia. As with fast fashion and fast tech, lighting fixtures have also become more expendable, despite the shift to energy efficient LED bulbs. The lighting fixtures themselves, he explains, are designed to be replaced rather than repaired: “You just have to throw it away and buy a new one.” In contrast, older lamps, even those from the early 1900s, can be repaired and fitted with modern LED bulbs, offering both longevity and sustainability.
It’s taken Yury his whole life to build up the knowledge and skills he applies to each unique piece. “Even today, sometimes people bring in challenging questions,” he says. “I have to think: What do I do, and how do I do it?” As the shop’s sole full-time employee, there’s a risk that this knowledge will be lost when he retires. He does have a part-time assistant who helps with customers’ orders. For now he’s unsure if the shop will find an apprentice, but he’s willing to teach his ways to the right person.
One thing he does know: He’s not ready to give up the joys of his work just yet. A recent job found him fixing a lamp a customer brought in; it was for the nursery she’d been preparing for her new baby. After upgrading the lamp with a three-way light bulb and soft white shade, Yury says, the customer was so happy that she told him she would think of him whenever she turned on the light to see her baby. To Yury, who is a family man himself, comments like these “are like gold,” he says.
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And so, the shop on Divisadero will stay lit for the foreseeable future. More than a retail and repair shop, Yury’s Lights & Beyond is a testament to the enduring value of craftsmanship in a city on the cutting edge of technology and automation — and a gentle reminder to pause and appreciate the stories of our city’s hardest-working business owners.
This article is part of a series produced by reThinkRepair, a grassroots group that has interviewed and photographed 40+ local repair businesses since 2018. Composed of a small team of eco-conscious San Franciscans, reThinkRepair celebrates the art of preservation by sharing stories of local repair shops with the broader community.
SAN FRANCISCO’S ICONIC Fillmore Jazz Festival returns for its 35th year on July 6 and 7, promising a vibrant weekend of music, arts and community spirit. Spanning Fillmore Street from Jackson to Eddy, this year’s festival is back at full strength, presenting an impressive lineup across five stages and showcasing the talents of 25 local and nationally known artists.
Music enthusiasts can enjoy performances at three outdoor stages located on Fillmore at the intersection of California, Sutter and Eddy streets. Indoor concerts at Calvary Presbyterian Church and Jones Memorial Methodist Church offer intimate settings for more music.
This year’s festival — which attracts more than 100,000 people to the street every Fourth of July weekend — kicks off with a special concert honoring three Bay Area musical legends. “Remembering Calvin Keys, Bobby Hutcherson & Joe Henderson” takes place on Saturday, July 6, from noon to 1:30 p.m. at the Sugar Pie DeSanto Sutter Stage. The stage is named for a favorite performer from Fillmore’s days at the Harlem of the West, the theme of this year’s festival.
Renowned vocalists Paula West and Kim Nalley headline the Saturday lineup on the Mary Stallings California Stage, named for another longtime local with an international following. The Sunday lineup is a triple treat, with The Dynamic Miss Faye Carrol, Kenny Washington and Fillmore’s own Kim Nalley all performing.
For a complete lineup of performances and more details, go to fillmorejazzfest.com.
