Gluten-free crackers with a Danish twist

By Christine Lunde

WORKING FROM A recipe tested and perfected in her apartment just off Jackson Street, Susan Gabiati has launched Kettel Krakkers, a line of gluten-free, mostly organic, traditional Danish crackers offered in four flavors: sesame, caraway, garlic and rosemary.

Although the traditional Danish cracker is gluten-based, Gabiati decided to adapt the recipe when her granddaughter Lisa was diagnosed with Celiac disease a few years ago.
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House-smoked trout at Baker & Banker

Photograph of Baker & Banker’s house-smoked trout by Katherine Sacks | Starchefs.com

ONE GREAT DISH | MICHELE MANDELL

The rapid-fire pace at which new restaurants open in San Francisco can make a three-year-old spot seem like yesterday’s news. But Baker & Banker, named for its husband-and-wife team — pastry chef Lori Baker and chef Jeff Banker — opened to critical fanfare in December 2009. And the place shows no sign of slowing down. On a recent Friday, the cozy, stylish dining room at Octavia and Bush was already packed by 6 p.m.

The dish not to miss here: house-smoked trout ($15). The delicately smoked fish is served on a potato latke with horseradish creme fraiche, pickled beets and shaved raw fennel. It’s been on the menu since opening day, and demand is as strong as ever. An average of 115 orders are sold every week.

This is not your grandmother’s crisp, thin potato latke. Baker & Banker’s version is thicker and more pancake-like, making it a substantial enough base to support a generous portion of smoked trout and pickled beets. The horseradish cream lends a kick and cuts the richness of the trout and potato, while the shaved raw fennel adds a fresh, crunchy accent. The disparate flavors and contrasting textures keep the palate interested.

The ample latke alone puts this dish firmly in comfort-food territory. But make no mistake, it’s an elegant dish, and beautifully composed. When I first saw it on its way to another table, I mistook it for a fancy dessert. The multicolored beets and pretty mound of fennel ribbons on top make it look like a little cake.

I can put away a staggering amount of food, so when I say this dish is filling, you can take that to the banker — or baker. It could serve as a light meal for someone with a smaller appetite. It also makes a great shared starter for the table, since it’s fairly easy to split.

Whether you’re sharing it or enjoying it yourself, you’ll appreciate that it’s served with a steak knife the size of Texas. You’ll need that to cut through the hearty elements on the plate.

The smoked trout is available at dinner and brunch. Tip: The full menu is served at the small bar, where seats are not reserved.

Puppy love

Photograph of Gaston by Susie Biehler

“We’ve begun to long for the pitter-patter of little feet — so we bought a dog. Well, it’s cheaper, and you get more feet.”
— Rita Rudner

FIRST PERSON | David Landis

It all began when we put up the Christmas tree in December. My partner Sean Dowdall is a cafeteria Catholic and I’m a Jewish wannabe. Neither of us is very religious, but we love a good celebration. So each year we deck our gay Christmas tree — a white one with pink balls coupled with a big pink ornament from a Parisian department store that always makes our Scott Street neighbors stop and stare.

This year, after the tree was trimmed, Sean turned to me and said, “I just can’t go through Christmas without a dog.”

About four months earlier, we had lost our beloved American Eskimo dogs, Shasta and Whitney. Not only were they part of the family, but they were also fixtures in the neighborhood. Having lasted almost to 18 (Shasta) and 17 (Whitney), they outlived many generations of dogs at Alta Plaza Park, their daily dog park of choice. We had seen many of Alta Plaza’s dogs come and go: Simon, Latte, Regina, Ruff, Molly, Bruiser, Panda, Banks and old Rose, to name a few. But Shasta and Whitney rallied on. And at Peet’s on Fillmore, while we sipped our cappuccinos, passersby couldn’t help but be seduced by their gorgeous white manes and fox-like smiles.

When they passed away, we found ourselves living a very different life: no daily walks to the park, no romps on the beach at Crissy Field — and nobody paying attention as the two of us sat on the bench outside Peet’s. The quiet in our house was deafening.

Then came Gaston.
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The upstairs-downstairs chef

Charles Phan and his family have dinner above OTD on their ping-pong dining table.

SUPERCHEF CHARLES PHAN “doesn’t have to go far to raid his restaurant pantry for ingredients,” The New York Times reports, since the family lives in an apartment above his Out the Door restaurant on Bush Street.

Mostly British Film Fest returns

Actress Minnie Driver will be present for opening night festivities January 17.

FILM | Ruthe Stein

Jack Bair — a co-founder and director of the Mostly British Film Festival, which opens at the restored Vogue Theatre at 3290 Sacramento Street on January 17 — leads two lives, at least. His day job is as senior vice president and general counsel of the San Francisco Giants, a team that had a good year. With the festival celebrating its fifth anniversary, Bair says this also promises to be a good year for the Mostly British Film Festival.

Working for a baseball team, how did you also become involved in saving old theatres and presenting a film festival? I first became involved in an effort to save the old Cinema 21 Theatre on Chestnut Street. I saw the theatre boarded up as I was walking back from a softball game at Moscone Field. My reaction was immediate: I had to do something. Fortunately, the effort was successful and gave life to the San Francisco Neighborhood Theater Foundation. The old Cinema 21 has been reincarnated as the Marina Theatre and is alive and well.

With the Bridge Theatre and Lumiere Theatre closing, there are very few neighborhood theatres left; the Clay on Fillmore is a surviving exception. We have approached the owners of the Bridge Theatre and made an offer to keep it open, so we hope there is still a chance to save it. Fortunately, there are still a few neighborhood theatres left. We own the historic Vogue Theatre on Sacramento Street. The Vogue just celebrated its 100th birthday and is one of the oldest movie theatres in the world. We also took over the lease at the Balboa Theatre to keep it alive. 
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Once a grocery, now a cafe

Tariq Zawaideh keeps things moving at the new Fillmore Fine Foods Cafe.

By Chris Barnett

IF YOU NEED a new hideout with plenty of space to chill over a hot coffee, feast on fresh, fairly priced food and connect with fast, free WiFi — without your train of thought being derailed by a room full of chatterboxes — the recently opened Fillmore Fine Foods Cafe could be the haunt you’ve hunted.

For a side street cafe, the place at 1981 Sutter, just off Fillmore, is huge and airy. For two decades, it was Fillmore Fine Foods, Fred and Jeannette Dugman’s corner grocery in the middle of block.
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The music stops at Johnny Rockets

ITS CHEERFUL and hard-working employees got the word a week ago: Today is the final day for a burger and a chocolate shake at the counter at Johnny Rockets on Fillmore. The retro diner is out of time, with its fried food, juke box and neon signs — especially since Roam Burgers opened across the street.

Look for Glaze Teriyaki — which has two locations in Manhattan — to bring its Seattle-style teriyaki to San Francisco in the spring.

Jet Mail, 300 others getting a new address

Kevin Wolohan and Ed Tinsley are moving Jet Mail from Fillmore to 2184 Sutter.

By Donna Gillespie

FILLMORE STREET will soon lose a landmark, a warm and friendly neighborhood destination that still offers meticulous, old-fashioned mailing services — a place that’s so much more than just somewhere to mail a box. After 22 years, Jet Mail is moving.

The good news is that it’s not going very far. January 31 will be Jet Mail’s last day at 2130 Fillmore Street. But on the next day, at 8 a.m. on February 1, the shop will reopen five blocks away — at 2184 Sutter Street, near Pierce.

Owner Ed Tinsley says the move was prompted by rapidly rising rents.

“The rent is too high right now, and it will soon go up,” says Tinsley. “We needed to find a place where the rent was more manageable that allows us to survive as a business.”
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Renaissance on Fillmore: 1955-65

An exhibition in Napa highlights artists who lived in the building at 2322 Fillmore.

ART | MICHAEL SCHWAGER

The history of Bay Area art is filled with stories of unique individuals, influential institutions and the social and political climate where artists congregated to live and create. An exhibition now at the Di Rosa Foundation in Napa tells one of those stories: the story of an exceptional group of artists in a particular San Francisco neighborhood during an especially vibrant period.

Most of the artists in “Renaissance on Fillmore: 1955-65” were relatively unknown in the mid-1950s — a transitional moment in the art world when abstract painting gave way to assemblage sculpture and both were influenced by poetry and music. Today these same artists form the foundation of modern art in Northern California and helped shape the future of American art. Their work remains remarkably vital and opens a window on the era during which it was created.

While North Beach flourished as a creative district, the Fillmore — in particular the northern portion referred to as the Upper Fillmore — was an equally important, if less publicized, locus of creative ferment and home to a remarkable and eclectic group of painters and poets. Many of these artists were affiliated, as students or faculty, with the California School of Fine Arts, now the San Francisco Art Institute.

The apartment building at 2322-2330 Fillmore was the nucleus of an artistic renaissance due to its residents and the activities that took place there. The unassuming white stucco and wood two-story structure near the corner of Washington and Fillmore contained four flats. It also had a modest backyard and even a plywood roof deck. The flats were large — seven rooms with 14-foot ceilings — and the rents small: a now-unbelievable $65 a month.

Even a partial list of the occupants from the mid 1950s through 1965 — when the building was sold and many of the artists were evicted — reads like a Who’s Who of Bay Area Beat Art and explains the building’s nickname, “Painterland”:

• artist and filmmaker Paul Beattie and his wife Dee, who were there around 1955 and 1956

• newlywed painters Joan and William H. Brown

• Bruce and Jean Conner, who shared lodgings with the poet Michael McClure and his wife Joanna briefly in 1957 before moving to their own place a block away on Jackson Street

• Jay DeFeo and Wally Hedrick, likely the building’s longest-tenured residents and its creative heart, who lived next door to the Browns and were introduced to the building by Beattie, taking his flat when he left

• Craig Kauffman, better known as an L.A. artist but who lived for a time in the flat of Jim Newman, founder of the Dilexi Gallery

• husband-and-wife Abstract Expressionist painters James Kelly and Sonia Gechtoff, who left Fillmore for New York around 1959

• the painter and musician Dave Getz, a resident between 1962 and 1964

• painter Les Kerr, who along with his wife, documentary filmmaker Mary Kerr and their son and daughter, lived there about the same time

• Ed Moses, another artist identified with Southern California, who, with his wife Avilda, took over Newman’s place around 1960.

Poet Jack Foley described 2322-2330 Fillmore as “inexpensive so artists could afford it, and when artists moved in and did their art and moved out again, they told other artists about it.” The sheer number — and talent — of the resident artists, poets and musicians transformed a “tenement building” into the place in the upper Fillmore to paint, write, play, critique, argue and party. In a 1998 interview, Hedrick recalled that “the building sort of vibrated with all of these mixed personalities … the poets came over a lot and there was a lot of bongo and chanting and sort of spontaneous musical drumming … there was a party about every weekend.”

Looking back on this unique place in the history of San Francisco art, it’s easy to get caught up in nostalgia for a time when the creativity, spontaneity and freedom with which these artists lived and worked seemed eminently more possible — and affordable. Yet looking at the art they created, now more than 50 years later, it is not nostalgia we’re filled with, but a deep and abiding respect for the beauty and power these works still exude.

Excerpted from the catalog for “Renaissance on Fillmore: 1955-65,” curated by Michael Schwager.

A masterpiece, created on Fillmore

Photograph of Jay DeFeo working on The Rose by Jerry Burchard

ART | JEROME TARSHIS

Youthful aspiration, ambivalence toward conventional art world success and a pitifully low budget came together for Bruce Conner and Jay DeFeo in the history of her masterpiece, The Rose.

DeFeo worked on it for eight years in her Fillmore apartment, building up layer upon layer of paint to a thickness of eight inches. By the time she stopped working on it, in 1965, it weighed a ton and its future was compromised by the fact that its paint was so heavy that the painting was pulling itself apart.

Looking back, Conner said that DeFeo’s potentially endless reworking of The Rose needed “an uncontrolled event to make it stop.” The Pasadena Art Museum had asked to exhibit the painting, but DeFeo put off letting it go. The eviction of Hedrick and DeFeo from 2322 Fillmore provided the nudge; it was necessary to move The Rose somewhere, and circumstances dictated Pasadena.
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