Dumplings & Buns brings Asian comfort

Dumpings & Buns is in the simple but sumptuous space at 2411 California Street.

By Louise Thompson

Dumplings & Buns — a new shop that opened August 29 just off Fillmore at 2411 California Street — is on a mission to satisfy locals’ comfort food cravings with simple Asian fare. Focusing on savory and sweet dumplings and buns, it also offers dim sum, soups and salads, mostly to go.

The eatery and specialty grocery is the dream come true of longtime Fillmore resident May Lee Iorfido, who owns the prominent corner building at Fillmore and California that houses her new restaurant.

“I used to love watching my grandmother and mother in the kitchen,” she says. “They’d make simple food, like steamed rice and salted fish, or an egg with oyster sauce, but always with such love and care. And both of my grandfathers were chefs. In our house, food always meant happiness.”
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Art, commerce, thuggery collide

Murals at Fillmore and Geary were overtaken by graffiti after a new bus shelter was installed.

By Kellie Ell

A once vibrant mural on the south side of the Boom Boom Room at Fillmore and Geary is now covered in gold, hot pink and white spray paint and other graffiti. Looming above, the next-door National Dollar store has painted its name and a parade of products it sells — soda, crackers, ketchup, sugar and toilet bowl cleaner — all intermixed with graffiti.

Alexander Andreas, owner of the Boom Boom Room, says the mural depicting jazz musicians on his building went undamaged for six years. But now it is “totally tagged,” he says, and vandals have also etched graffiti into the glass walls and top of the new designer bus shelter and smashed its back wall.

Andreas blames the rise in vandalism on the recent repositioning of the 38-Geary  bus shelter. Before it was at the curb. Now it is backed up against the wall of the Boom Boom Room, providing shelter for taggers to deface property out of sight.

“It’s absurd,” he says. “The city did a disservice. The move has triggered an onslaught of graffiti hitting my mural.”
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Finding the faith — and a good story

Photograph of Julian Guthrie on Fillmore Street by Chris Hardy

FIRST PERSON | JULIAN GUTHRIE

Having lived in San Francisco for nearly 20 years and worked as a reporter first for the Examiner and now for the Chronicle, I have come to see the different ways neighborhoods in the city are defined. For many, the center of a neighborhood is a coffee house, or a park, or a commercial strip to stroll. For me, it’s all those things.

The area around Fillmore Street has long been my home. I jog the steps of Alta Plaza and spend countless hours at the playground with my son. We love the yogurt at Fraiche, the pastries at the Boulangerie and the Fillmore Bakeshop — and we adored its predecessor, Patisserie Delanghe. We’re regulars at Delfina and Dino’s and Florio and SPQR.

This neighborhood works, with its mix of young and old and in between, its families and dogs, its parks and shops. And while countless amazing stores and restaurants have come and gone (Fillamento, the Brown Bag and Bittersweet, to name a few), the relaxed character of the neighborhood remains the same. It’s what drew me here, and what keeps me here.

In recent years, I’ve learned of yet another way people define their neighborhoods: by a house of worship. My new book, The Grace of Everyday Saints — published August 18 — is about a group of people who found a strong sense of community through their spiritual home, St. Brigid, the muscular stone church at the corner of Broadway and Van Ness Avenue.
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Film Society loses its leader

Graham Leggat (1960-2011)

Graham Leggat — the irrepressible Scottish impresario who led the San Francisco Film Society on to greater glory during the past six years — died tonight at his home after an 18-month battle with cancer.

Under Leggat, the Film Society made its annual San Francisco International Film Festival — the nation’s oldest — more important than ever and established its headquarters at the Sundance Kabuki Cinemas in Japantown. The Film Society’s offices are nearby in the Presidio.

In 2010 Leggat rallied community support to transform the endangered Clay Theater on Fillmore Street into its year-round home. When that effort lagged, he struck a deal with the New People complex on Post Street to stage a year-round film festival in its state-of-the-art cinema. The Film Society’s programming at New People cinema begins September 1.

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Before Alice met Gertrude, she lived nearby

Photograph of Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas in Paris by Cecil Beaton

By Wanda M. Corn

Alice Babette Toklas met Gertrude Stein in the fall of 1907. She had come to Paris from San Francisco with her next-door neighbor, Harriet Levy, and had enough money to last her a year, although she hoped an inheritance from her grandfather’s estate would allow her to stay longer. Little did she know that she would remain in Paris for the rest of her life and see San Francisco briefly only one more time, 28 years later.
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Michael & Sarah Stein: from Pierce Street to Paris

ART | Jerome Tarshis

“The Steins Collect,” the excellent exhibition now at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, focuses on Gertrude Stein for understandable reasons: She was one of the most celebrated writers of the 20th century and, together with Alice B. Toklas, was also the dominant half of the most famous lesbian couple in history. Hers is the most recognizable name in the family.

Her brother Leo, a gifted explainer of the art he and his sister collected, and himself an occasional painter, was in his own way equally pyrotechnic until he almost willfully burned himself out and broke with Gertrude in 1913.

Their brother Michael and his wife, Sarah, presented themselves less brilliantly. Unlike Gertrude and Leo, birds of passage who left the Bay Area at an early age for Harvard, Johns Hopkins and then Paris, Michael and Sarah were deeply established in the city’s commercial and social life.
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Booty-shaking at the Boom Boom Room

Photographs of the Boom Boom Room by Susie Biehler

SALOONS | CHRIS BARNETT

A t the Boom Boom Room, the divey-looking 78-year-old live music club on Fillmore at Geary, the best seat in the house is off limits to customers. The tufted red leather booth, with its perfect view of the band and dance floor, is permanently reserved for legendary blues guitarist John Lee Hooker, who some claim once owned the joint. Yet it’s unlikely he’ll show up these days, for even the hottest act. John Lee died in 2002.

“Well, maybe to you he’s dead. But not to me,” insists Hooker’s longtime business partner and the Boom Boom Room’s current owner, Alexander Andreas.

Andreas claims clubgoers have offered as much as $600 for Hooker’s booth — instead of the red vinyl bar stools or the 35-foot leather banquette that runs along the south wall. But the bids all fall on deaf ears. “It’s not for sale,” he says.

John Lee may now be strumming at the Big Bad Blues Bar in the Sky, but his Boom Boom Room on Fillmore is very much alive and kicking it every night except Monday.

Opened in 1933 as Jack’s Tavern at 1931 Sutter Street, across from Cottage Row, it was the first live music club that welcomed blacks in what would become, during World War II, the Fillmore jazz district. The music has since strayed far and wide from the original wailings of Chicago and New Orleans style jazz and blues. Soloists, duos, trios and full blown bands today belt out everything from R&B, funk, soul, boogie, salsa, rock, hip-hop and boogaloo to booty-shaking sounds that defy classification.

Andreas distills it down to “soul-centric, on-your-feet roots music.”

One thing is certain: The Boom Boom Room has the best happy hour — make that happy hours — on the street. At 4 p.m., 10 draught beers start flowing at $3 a pint. No taps for boring Bud or puny Miller Light here; they’re mainly Northern California microbrews sporting names like Arrogant Bastard, Downtown Brown, Dead Guy Ale and White Lightning. The same three bucks will get you a bottle of Pabst, Heineken, Corona, Negro Modello, Amstel Light and non-alcoholic O’Doul. Well drinks and wine are also priced at $3, but don’t look for Far Niente or Jordan; the wines here are a step up from the stuff that comes in a box. Happy hour ends at 8 p.m. and prices revert back to about $5 to $7.

The Boom Boom Room isn’t really a cocktail bar, although it does mix the classic martinis, sazaracs and manhattans.

But the stand up and shake it clientele here is a beer and whiskey crowd, anyway. When they opt for something stronger, it’s usually bourbon, scotch, vodka or rum straight or with a mixer. Barkeeps have no time to tinker with six or seven ingredients and customers don’t have the patience to wait for it. The creativity is on stage, not in the glass.

The best time to drop into the Boom Boom Room is around 6 p.m. when the band performing for the night will be tuning up and riffing, the crowd has not yet gathered, happy hour prices are in effect and no one is collecting admission. The cover charge, ranging from $5 to $20 depending on the day of the week and the performers, starts at 9 p.m. along with the show. There’s no cover on Sundays and Tuesdays.

Three hours before showtime is a lot like dress rehearsal; you see the room in all its naked glory. Beer boxes are strewn around. The house lights are tested, sound checks are taken, the mood of the place keeps changing. The band itself seems to shrink and expand before your very eyes. It often does. Andreas says musicians playing the Fillmore Auditorium and other clubs will frequently swing by and sit in with the band, often unexpectedly, for a song, a set or for the night.

Before the first downbeat is also a good time to check out the art: faded black and whites of greats from another era, recent color photos, some paintings of John Lee Hooker himself and a potpourri of photos of national treasures and local heroes, randomly hung. Among them are Buddy Miles, Fillmore’s own Etta James and Muddy Waters and his band, who were snapped at a recording studio that once stood on the corner of Pierce and Bush. Andreas himself took some of the photos, and others are by the great San Francisco rock photographer Jim Marshall.

When the music starts, the Boom Boom Room roars to life. Candles flicker in squatty red hurricane lamps on every table and along the bar. The overhead spots bathe the rich velvet stage drape in blood red and give the musicians a soft amber glow. The powerhouse sound system sounds like Dolby on steroids. The spinning disco ball throws off a kaleidoscope of mirrored images. Two Sputnik light fixtures over the bar radiate an odd but soothing turquoise. The sensation is just this side of psychedelic.

On a recent Saturday night, Andreas, 43, sporting a black T-shirt, was drinking in the scene along with a Maker’s Mark on the rocks, clearly pleased.

“You’ll notice everything’s curved here — the bar, banquettes, the leather upholstered automobile bumpers over the backbar,” he notes. Amazingly, the car bumpers fit right into the decor. So do the two dozen small brass plaques affixed to the bar in front of every stool — tiny tributes saluting some of Fillmore’s colorful characters by their street names: Chili Joe, Trumpet, the Lawman, Cable Car Joe, Nash, Mashed Potato George and Big Earl.

“Trumpet carried a trumpet case but he never played the trumpet,” Andreas recalls. “He was a bartender when this was Jack’s Bar on Sutter.” He also recalls the case was packed with loaded dice for the pick-up games he always had going in an alley near Jack’s — that is, until one of the perennial losers examined the “bones.”

The brass plaques, the framed photos, the tales of yesteryear, the DJ station just inside the front door and the juke box that hangs on the wall at the east end of the backbar are all ways the Boom Boom Room is doing its part to make sure the giants and the unknowns of jazz and blues and their music will never be forgotten.

Andreas puts it his way: “This place is dedicated to the pioneers, originators and legends, both old and new — the famous musicians and the up-and-coming artists.”

Read more: “Was it really John Lee Hooker’s joint?

Was it really John Lee Hooker’s joint?

John Lee Hooker’s red leather booth at the Boom Boom Room is still reserved only for him.

SALOONS | CHRIS BARNETT

So did swashbuckling blues guitarist John Lee Hooker really own the Boom Boom Room as a side gig? If you believe the sign above the door, he did. And if you listen to the current owner, Alexander Andreas, he did.

But don’t bet your booty on it.

Fillmore jazz genealogists Elizabeth Pepin and Lewis Watts, authors of  Harlem of the West, say the bar opened in 1933 as Jack’s Tavern and was originally located at 1931 Sutter Street. It was one of the first nightclubs in the neighborhood to cater to African Americans. It was also called Jack’s of Sutter and the New Jack’s Lounge in days gone by.

In 1988, Jack’s Tavern moved to its current spot at 1601 Fillmore, hard by the Geary bridge. A year later, Alexander Andreas — born and raised just off Fillmore and a wannabe filmmaker — landed a bartending job there.

A Marquette University grad, he used to trek during college from Milwaukee to Chicago to hang out at the city’s blues bars and jazz clubs. But his bartending gig at Jack’s quickly proved he would rather be an owner than sling pints and shots. “I was also doing production coordination for TV commercials,” he says, “but if I asked my boss at Jack’s for a day off, he’d give me a permanent vacation.”

Andreas met the legendary John Lee Hooker in 1990.

“It was just after he cut a single with Bonnie Raitt and he walked in the front door with his small entourage — a couple young girls and his driver. John Lee was enjoying himself and I told the doorman to make sure no one bothered him,” he says.

The Jackie Ivory Quartet — which had opened for Junior Walker and the All-Stars — was Jack’s Tavern’s house band. Hooker and his ladies came in every weekend to watch them perform. Andreas saw that the group got the best seats and strong drinks quickly served. “He always dressed in sharkskin suits and wore a Homburg hat,” Andreas recalls.

An unabashed fan who was quickly becoming a groupie, Andreas went to Foster City to catch a Hooker show and the guitarist spotted him.

“You want to come to my shows?” Hooker asked. “Fine, you can carry my guitar.”

He did, carrying the case to every Hooker performance at many venues in the Bay Area. “It was cool. I was part of his entourage,” Andreas says now.

Meantime, Andreas says, the owner of Jack’s Tavern was gutting the club, getting rid of the dance floor, extending the bar. “He was trying to make it a beer bar with 50 taps and an Irish balladeer standing on a soap box. It was just gaudy and tacky, with lots of neon signs from Budweiser and Coors,” he says. “Plus, he was kicking out all the old-timers like Mashed Potato George, Big Earl and Trumpet.”

Disgusted, Andreas quit and looked around for a place of his own. After 18 months of searching the city, he heard Jack’s Tavern’s owner owed back rent and couldn’t get his lease renewed.

Andreas rustled up the money, went around his old boss to the landlord and won the lease. But Jack’s Tavern was by then a tired and tainted name. The new proprietor remembered that Hooker had recorded a song called “Boom, Boom.” Suddenly, Andreas had a name — the Boom Boom Room.

But he needed a partner, preferably one with visibility. “I went to John Lee and said, ‘Wouldn’t you like to have your own club?’ And his answer was, ‘Hell, yes, I would.’ But his business manager shot me down, saying, ‘Suppose someone slips, falls and sues. Hooker would be liable and it could besmirch his name.’ ”

Andreas, whose father is a lawyer, came up with a canny solution. They would use John Lee Hooker’s name and likeness, but he wouldn’t actually invest a dime.

The celebrated guitarist was thrilled. He had his own club with all the perks of ownership — a private booth, fine bourbons — but none of the perils and problems of running a club. Andreas in turn netted plenty of promotional capital that’s still paying dividends today, nearly a decade after John Lee Hooker died.

Photographs by Susie Biehler

MORE: “Booty-shaking at the Boom Boom Room

Helping with an uphill battle

Meritus scholar Olushade Unger (center) went to Honduras to participate in a public health project during her spring break this year.

GOOD WORKS | Carol McLaughlin

If anyone knows what it means to keep going in the face of adversity, it’s Olushade Unger. She grew up shuttling between her mother’s home in the Fillmore district and her father’s place in Hunters Point, where violence and gang activities were commonplace. Unger was in high school, planning on attending college, when her musician father became ill with cancer and couldn’t work. Life became an emotional and financial roller coaster.

Her high school grades suffered during the year of her father’s illness. But she worked hard to catch up, graduated with good grades and was accepted at UC San Diego, where the annual bill is nearly $28,000. She got Pell and Cal grants that covered some of the costs, but not nearly enough. And her B average grades weren’t high enough to qualify for the merit scholarships available to top students.

So she applied for a Meritus College Fund scholarship, awarded to students whose GPA is 3.0 to 3.7. Meritus College Fund, which began 15 years ago, is the brainchild of Dr. Henry Safrit, who retired a few years ago from his endocrinology practice at California Pacific Medical Center in the neighborhood.
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Local bourbon from the Gold Rush revived

Cyrus Noble bourbon is on the marquee at D&M Liquors on Fillmore.

A neighborhood icon with historic roots experiencing a renaissance — that was the cause for celebration in mid-July at the Elite Cafe. It was a 30th anniversary party for the Elite, held more than 80 years after its well-preserved Art Deco home first opened in 1928 as the Lincoln Grill.

But the rejuvenated Elite and its renovated building are youngsters compared to another local institution sharing the spotlight at the July 14 bash. The evening also marked the return of Cyrus Noble bourbon, first served up 140 years ago by the Haas Brothers and now available again for the first time in decades.

“It’s our neighborhood,” says Steven Burrows, the chief operating officer of Haas Brothers and a descendent of the Haas family who grew up on Clay Street. “Of course we wanted a good start at home.”

The Haas family came from Germany to San Francisco soon after gold was discovered and by 1851 was providing groceries and spirits to miners in California, Nevada and Alaska. Their relative Levi Strauss began making jeans.

Things didn’t go so well for an unlucky miner named Cyrus Noble, who gave up his search for gold and returned to Ohio to work in a distillery, where he perfected his talent for tasting and blending. Legend says he became so intoxicated by his work that he fell into a vat of whiskey, which was promptly named for him.
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