Serving up sushi in a tiny shop

Kats and Yoshimi Oune carry on the sushi shop her mother started.

Story and photographs by Carina Woudenberg

Yoshimi Oune, owner of Maruya Sushi at 1904 Fillmore, never had any ambition to own the tiny take-out shop her mother opened in 1965. She says she just gradually took over as her mother got older and became less able to handle it on her own.

Today, with the help of her husband, Kats Oune, she’s still at it, preparing the same sushi rolls her mother used to make — “the basics,” she says — and greeting customers that include two or three generations of the store’s faithful fans.
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Zen and the art of the public bath

The communal baths at Kabuki Springs & Spa.

By Donna Domino

“There’s a very special energy here,” says Kathy Nelsen, longtime director of the Kabuki Springs & Spa, explaining why the cultural fixture has endured for nearly 40 years. “The communal baths are really what differentiates us. We have some of the only ones in California and the U.S.”

Nelsen, who has carefully nurtured the Kabuki’s distinctively spiritual environment for the last decade, says another thing that sets the Kabuki apart is a deep respect for the body. She describes a recent women’s night to make her point.
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Brother, can you spare a latte?

Photograph by Kathryn Amnott

THE BARISTA BAROMETER | Cheryl Lurie

How has the economic downturn affected business in local coffee shops? According to several general managers of the neighborhood’s mocha meccas, sales may not have increased dramatically, but the customer base has. More people now have the freedom to hang out on the street, even if they don’t necessarily have a lot of money to spend.

One thing is clear: The rules have changed as more and more office-spacers descend upon the cafe culture. Before you snap up your laptop and head out to set up camp at one of the neighborhood’s many coffee shops, consider this report from the front.
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Hot in the kitchen

1300’s David Lawrence

David Lawrence, executive chef and co-owner of the high-class soul food restaurant 1300 on Fillmore, is featured in a hot-off-the-press new book, Sexy Dishes: A Guide to Who’s Hot in the Kitchen.

“David is tall, dark and handsome,” the guide notes, with “a British accent, a great smile and dimples.” His philosophy: “All food is soul food.”

One tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor!

Joanne Weir: Women love tequila, too.

By Joanne Weir

It all started several years ago when an invitation arrived in my mailbox on Pine Street beckoning me to the launch of a spiffy new tequila in a sexy square bottle.

It took place at Tommy’s, the well-known tequila bar out on Geary, and was mostly men who were sniffing and swirling their glasses of tequila. But the few women who were there were just as enthusiastic.

I discovered that night that women love tequila just as much as men. They go out with their girlfriends for margaritas, and they also savor tequila straight-up with meals, drink it slowly from a snifter and enjoy it mixed into new, innovative, seasonal cocktails. I was thrilled by the camaraderie among these women and pleased to learn that I wasn’t the only one out there who liked a beverage that had long been considered the domain of men.
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Local home sales down 65%

Twin Victorians at 2016 and 2018 Buchanan.


The number of sales in March 2009 increased slightly, from nine to 10 properties. However, we are still well below the number of sales recorded during the same time last year, when 31 properties closed. This is more than a 65 percent decrease in volume.

The change can largely be attributed to buyers’ fears about the state of the economy. With so much uncertainty, there is little sense of urgency in the market and buyers are not coming forward with offers unless the properties are well priced and very much in line with what they are looking for. Housing supply continues to run well ahead of last year, with 172 current listings in the neighborhood, compared to 115 at this point last year.

NEW LISTING: An extensively remodeled 3-bedroom Victorian at 2016 Buchanan was just listed at $2.495 million. Along with its sister property at 2018 Buchanan, it was designed by J.I. Devlin, who also designed St. Ignatius Church. It has a three-car garage and is detached on three sides, allowing for a light-filled home.

John Fitzgerald, Pacific Union Real Estate

Art in a cup at the Grove

Attorney Monte Travis found a masterpiece in his mocha.

By Barbara Kate Repa

At the Grove, at 2016 Fillmore, customers get more than latte in their cups. They get the sun and the moon. Or a flower. Or a fire-breathing dragon.

Manager Dave Harmon says the Grove always served a good cup of coffee, but he wanted a way to give customers more, to stand out from the crowd of coffee joints on the street. So a couple of years ago, he flew to Portland to attend a school offering special training in latte art — figures, flowers and fauna that baristas can pour and paint onto the foam.
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STILL STANDING

Longtime Fillmore cobbler Ed Nahigian, owner of SF Boot and Shoe Repair.

Longtime Fillmore cobbler Ed Nahigian, owner of SF Boot and Shoe Repair.

LOCALS | JAMES CARBERRY

“I was standing right here when it hit,”says Ed Nahigian, the veteran owner of San Francisco Boot & Shoe Repair, occupying his usual position behind the front counter where he greets customers.

It’s the same place he was standing shortly after 5 p.m. on Tuesday, October 17, 1989, talking to a customer who had dropped by the shop at 2448 Fillmore Street to pick up his loafers.

A chandelier in the store window suddenly started to vibrate. He knew in a nanosecond what was happening.

“I think we’re having an earthquake,” he told his customer.

Nahigian turned to alert his 12-year-old son and an employee in the back of the shop. A wall was undulating as if invisible waves were coursing through it. Fearful that the building might collapse, he shouted for everyone to get out of the store.

Seconds after they were outside, the earthquake ended as suddenly as it had started. The building was still standing, and the store had not been damaged. Other buildings on Fillmore Street also seemed to be intact.

A woman who had parked in front of the shop turned up her radio, and people gathered around to listen to the news. There was a report of fires in the Marina.

Nahigian hurried up Fillmore to Broadway to look down on the Marina. Sure enough, fires had broken out and some apartment buildings and a number of homes were severely damaged. Nahigian ran back down Fillmore to report what he had seen. By the time he got back to the shop, he was exhausted and feeling a little nauseous. It began to sink in that he had just lived through an earthquake.

As night came on, news reports made clear there had been extensive earthquake damage in the Bay Area. Part of the Bay Bridge had collapsed, as had part of the Nimitz Freeway in the Oakland. Earthquake damage had forced the closure of the Embarcadero Freeway, which would later be torn down. The earthquake struck just as third game of the World Series was about to begin, and the San Francisco Giants and Oakland Athletics would wait to play another day.  Because the Series was broadcast globally, people all over the world saw the earthquake live on television.

As he had done many times before, Nahigian locked up his store and went home for the night. On Wednesday morning he returned to the shop, although there was no business to be done. The power was out, and the phones were dead.

shoewindow

As the day progressed, the neighborhood filled with people. “Everybody wanted to be outside with other people,” Nahigian says. “We were all hugging one another — we realized how fortunate we were.”

Early Thursday morning the power came on, and phone service later was restored. Gradually life began to return to normal on Fillmore Street and elsewhere. But it would be a long time before the Bay Area fully recovered from the Loma Prieta earthquake, which originated in Santa Cruz County, lasted about 15 seconds and measured 6.9 on the Richter scale.

Despite the memories of the 1989 earthquake and the constant threat of another one, Ed Nahigian remains glad he set up shop in the neighborhood.

Born and raised in the Central Valley, he learned the shoe repair business from his parents. He had always dreamed of living in San Francisco, so when his parents moved to Marin County, he started scouting out neighborhoods in San Francisco where he night open a business.

One day he was driving through the Marina and came to the foot of Fillmore Street.

“I turned right at a Colonel Sanders and drove up Fillmore, wondering whether my VW would make it up the hill,” he says. He found a shoe store on Fillmore Street, took over from a previous tenant, renovated the shop and opened for business. That was in 1980, and his store is now one of the oldest on Fillmore Street.

Nahigian has seen many changes in the neighborhood, where he both lives and works. “There used to be a lot of professional people in their 40s or older — they would pack the downtown buses every weekday morning,” he says. “While there are still a lot of professionals here, they are younger, and there are more families with young children living in the neighborhood.”

Nahigian says he has stayed in business for so long by providing superior customer service.

“I use the best materials, and I decline to do certain types of work, like leather bags” he says. His business has changed over time. “My work used to be equally divided between men’s and women’s shoes,” he said. “Now it’s almost 90 percent women’s work.”

He says he has learned to accept life’s inevitable changes. “You don’t know what tomorrow will bring,” Nahigian says, “but you can appreciate and enjoy what you have.”

Early most mornings, Nahigian walks from home to his store, which is open every day except Sunday. He lives near St. Dominic’s Church, whose tower was severely damaged in the 1989 earthquake, and later repaired, shortened and strengthened.

It’s slow, but picking up

The entrance to 3355 Pacific, on the market — briefly — for the first time in more than 50 years.

February 2009 was another slow period for home sales in the neighborhood. With the economy looking gloomier every day and the stock market reaching record lows, it would appear, at least at first glance, that our housing market is moving in a similar direction. However, the most recent activity in the local market suggests this may not be the case. Although only three homes and six condos closed during the last month, a total of 19 properties went into contract. By no means does that constitute an active market, but it certainly is a noticeable uptick.  It remains to be seen if the activity will continue to increase though what is normally a busy spring market.

HIGH END ACTIVITY: Sales on the upper end, which have been virtually nonexistent since October, have picked up significantly. Several impressive properties have gone into contract, most of them within days of being listed or relisted. One example is 3355 Pacific Avenue, which came on the market at the end of January for $8.9 million. This was the first time this property has been on the market in more than 50 years.  It’s a substantial 6-bedroom home on the Presidio wall that, while not updated, contains most impressive rooms for entertaining.  There were four offers and, while it sold at an undisclosed price, it reportedly closed above the asking price.

John Fitzgerald

This Bud’s for you

Photographs of Bud Martinez by Mina Pahlevan

By Syed Ali

Bud Martinez comes to work most Monday mornings at the garage at the Shell gas station at California and Steiner Streets, just as he has for more than 50 years — and more than a decade after he sold the station and vowed to retire.

In 1952, he started working at the Shell station. Before long he took a former employer’s offer of help and, for $4,000, bought the station. In 1996, after decades of long hours and hard labor, Martinez decided to sell the station and retire. But just when he thought he was done, the station pulled him back. “The fellow I sold it to made some mistakes, so I came back to help him,” says Martinez. “Things didn’t work out, so Shell Oil Company took it over and hired a management company. I’ve been here ever since and there have been four new owners. I’m still here, but not as the boss.”
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