A Fillmore love story

SHE WAS 19 when they met in New York. He was a much-in-demand illustrator twice her age.

Denise Ackle and Bill Shields became good friends, but both went on to marry other people. After she moved to California and then back to New York, they met again. This time it was different. “When I re-met Bill, that was it,” she says. “It was like falling in love with a very dear friend.”

Thus began a 40-year marriage, a loving family and a lifetime of adventurous and artistic explorations, many of which took place a few steps from Fillmore Street.

One of his early projects required a trip from New York to San Francisco. As they looked out the window of their room at the Mark Hopkins Hotel, Bill asked, “How’d you like to live in San Francisco?” “I’d love to,” Denise replied, and they went home to New York, packed up their Volkswagen bus and their two little boys and moved across the country.

A few years later they were up at Tahoe for the summer. Bill met a French visitor one afternoon and came home to ask, “How’d you like to live in Paris?” “I’d love to,” Denise replied, and they packed up the boys and moved to France for two years.

“He was always game to go anywhere,” she says. “We didn’t have much money, but we lived very well. We had such a good life.”

She bought and remodeled Victorians, becoming one of the first to increase their allure by staging them with nice furnishings and Bill’s paintings. Later they opened the Artists Inn behind a white picket fence on Pine Street. His artistic career flourished.

“He was one of those lucky people who did what he loved all his life,” she says. “And he loved this neighborhood. He loved being able to walk down Fillmore Street.”

Bill died in April, a week before his 85th birthday. He was buried on October 26 in Arlington National Cemetery with the honors due a distinguished Navy pilot.

This month the honors come closer to home, in the neighborhood Bill and Denise Shields loved and lived in for most of the years they were married. “William Shields: An Exhibition of His Art,” including paintings, drawings and sculpture, is on view at Calvary Presbyterian Church at Fillmore and Jackson. In addition to the major abstract oil paintings and pastel landscapes of the French countryside, the exhibition also includes more personal mementoes from their life together — cards and notes and wooden assemblages he created for birthdays, anniversaries and holidays.

“Happy Birthday and oh my Lordy, you’re the most beautiful lady who ever turned 40,” says one, featuring a rapturous drawing of Denise’s red hair.

“Lovely Denise,” begins another. “How come you get bolder (just cause you’re more older?)”

A reception honoring the Shields will be held in Calvary’s lounge at 2515 Fillmore on Sunday, December 12, at 11:30 a.m. The exhibition continues through January 2.

EARLIER: Fillmore loses a familiar face

A drawing by Bill Shields of his wife Denise at a street market while they lived in Paris.

Citizen Cake finds a home

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Since the doors to Elizabeth Falkner’s new Citizen Cake finally opened on November 13, a constant stream of people pours in from the street — each one welcomed with the same cheery query: “Are you just browsing the desserts?”

Some indeed are looky loos — to be forgiven for ogling the butterscotch miso verrine, macaroons and cupcakes in artful arrangements.

“I love this location,” says Falkner. “Wow, we’re really in a neighborhood. People are always looking in and coming in. It’s been amazing.”
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Kiehl’s plans a move down the street

Kiehl’s has been in business at the corner of Fillmore and Washington for a decade.

In a certain sign that the center of gravity on Fillmore continues to shift southward, Kiehl’s plans to move its body products store from 2360 Fillmore to 1971 Fillmore, at the intersection with Pine Street.

“Our lease is up and we’re looking for a new home,” said store manager Cris Thorngate. “It’s time for us to be more exposed. This is a quieter end of the street.”
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Fillmore uneasy about new stores

Many people would be thrilled to have internationally known retailers set up shop on their streets, but prominent new neighbors have made some Fillmore residents uneasy, according to a report in California Apparel News.

Independent boutique owners and their staffs in the upscale neighborhood fear their days are numbered. “In 15 years, this street will be a mall,” said Eddie Izzo, buyer for the Metro 200 boutique, located at 2116 Fillmore Street. “Small stores won’t be able to make it here with the high rents.”

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Final cut at the Clay?

SF Weekly offers a cover story this week on the uncertain future of Fillmore Street’s Clay Theater. “People don’t want the Clay Theater to die,” the Weekly says. “But judging from ticket sales, they don’t want to see films there either.”

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A tiny treasure slips away

Maruya Sushi closes its tiny Fillmore shop after 45 years.

MARUYA SUSHI served its final saba sushi on October 29, 2010, after feeding generations of neighbors for the past 45 years. Yoshimi and Kats Oune have retired and closed their take-out sushi shop, which was begun by her mother. The tiny storefront at 1904 Fillmore will become a jewelry store.

EARLIER: Serving up sushi in a tiny shop

At Browser Books, a relationship with readers

Photograph of Browser Books by Kathi O'Leary

FIRST PERSON | Ken Samuels

The other day, while selling some books to a couple of young men, I realized I’d known them since they were little kids pleading with their mothers to buy them Berenstain Bears books.

That sums up my decade and a half at Browser Books on Fillmore and Sacramento selling books to the families of this neighborhood. I get to know them as they return again and again. Some kids are shy, nudging their parents to the counter to ask a question, while others march up and confidently fire away with their requests. Hands down, these are the most rewarding moments of my workday.

I never forget how booksellers shared their enthusiasm for literature with me when I was a child. Along with my family, they made me a lover of books — and in time a writer. I don’t know if I’m helping neighborhood kids become writers, but I hope I’m helping them become book and bookstore lovers.

Browser Books, like all independent bookshops, faces many challenges these days, but our relationship with the readers in this neighborhood is what sustains us. It begins with the young ones. One minute they’re reading Harold and the Purple Crayon and before you know it they’re on to War and Peace. After all these years, I still love to watch this development.

To me, that’s the definition of being a local, neighborhood bookseller.

Ken Samuels has worked at Browser Books since 1996.

EARLIER: “Thank God for Browser Books

Fillmore Hardware closing after 49 years

Photograph of Fillmore Hardware by Rose Hodges

One of Fillmore Street’s iconic institutions will disappear by the end of the year when Fillmore Hardware closes its doors promptly at 5:55 for the final time.

For 49 years — since 1961 — the store has been the ultimate neighborhood-serving business. Originally twice its present size, it was a full-service hardware and glass company that furnished the materials used to renovate many of the Victorians in the neighborhood. In recent years it become a more eclectic emporium, keeping the basics but focusing more on housewares and whimsy.

“Simply put, we are tired,” owners and sisters Patti Lack and Terri Alonzo write in a letter to their customers and neighbors. “We considered staying one more year so we could celebrate 50 years in business,” the sisters write, adding, “It just isn’t worth it.” The two sisters have been running the store since their brother-in-law, Phil Dean, retired in 2005 after nearly 40 years as manager. Their father, Jim Hayes, remained actively involved in the business until his death last year at age 89.

“We never could have closed while he was alive,” Patti Lack said. “It kept him going.”

She said they will gradually sell off the store’s considerable inventory in the coming weeks and hope to be out by December 31. They own the building and have retained a broker to offer it for lease. She said they had not considered selling the store, which was started by their grandfather.

“Nobody wants to buy a hardware store,” she said. “The only reason we’ve lasted is because we own the building.”

Lack said it was an especially difficult decision given the number of people who come in regularly and tell them it’s their favorite store.

“It’s just time,” she said. “But we’re gonna totally miss it.”

EARLIER: Fillmore Phil Dean: a good egg

Talks continue on fate of Clay Theater

There’s been no breakthrough yet, but negotiations are continuing between the owner of the Clay Theater and the San Francisco Film Society, which hopes to make the theater its home.

In addition, the owner’s architect has met with the CEO of Landmark Theatres, the current operator, about renovations that might make the theater attractive to Landmark as a long-term operator.

“We are actively engaged,” said architect Charles Kahn. He said it appears that both Landmark and the Film Society prefer a single-screen theater over his proposal to create three smaller theaters, and that owner Balgobind Jaiswal is agreeable. More contentious is Jaiswal’s desire to build four townhouses above the theater and excavate underneath for parking.

“The theater is secondary to their desire to build condos,” said Graham Leggett, executive director of the Film Society. “We worry it’s not going to be workable for us.” Getting permits and building the condos could take years, Leggett said, and require the theater to go dark during construction.

Kahn said the condos are essential to fund the renovation of the theater. He said the owner is “absolutely committed” to finding a way to save the theater.

Film Society leaders have met with Kahn three times, most recently with an architect of their own they retained to help shape the future of the 100-year-old theater. “It seems problematic at the moment, but at least there’s a dialogue,” Leggett said. “It’s a work in progress.”

EARLIER: How the Clay dodged a bullet

They sold Model Ts here

The garage at 2401 Bush Street was designed by architect Timothy Pflueger.

 

ARCHITECTURE | THERESE POLETTI

In one of the more unusual examples of architectural ornament in San Francisco, a circle of lady bugs surrounds what appears to be a 1915 Ford Model-T Roadster. They adorn the facade of the architecturally significant 94-year-old garage that is home to Hayes Auto Repair at 2401 Bush Street, between Pierce and Scott.

Perhaps it was just a whimsical detail added by the architect, James R. Miller, or his favorite draftsman, then-24-year-old Timothy L. Pflueger.

Miller & Pflueger would become well-known in the 1920s and 1930s for projects such as the city’s first high-rise at 140 New Montgomery, the Stock Exchange building and club, the medical building at 450 Sutter, the Castro and Paramount Theaters and other major buildings, many in what is now referred to as the Art Deco style.

But before these high profile projects, where Pflueger would make a name for himself as a master of the style, Miller was building their architectural practice. Residential and commercial work came into the office consistently after the 1906 earthquake, and Miller and his crew, including the young Pflueger, a San Francisco native who grew up in the Mission District, were busy.

The garage at 2401 Bush Street is an example of Miller’s eclectic take on the Renaissance revival style, which he and his chief draftsman Pflueger would use again in the Redwood City Firehouse — now the Redwood City Public Library — three years later. Like the firehouse, the Bush Street garage is faced in brick and highlighted by graceful arches. The long building dominates the block, which it shares with the California Tennis Club. The garage is characterized by an unusual broken-pitch roof and three arched entrances, two for vehicles and one for the office. Mullioned windows add a French twist to the Italianate arches. The roofline is richly carved.

Ornamental ladybugs surround a Roadster at 2401 Bush.

In 1901, Pardon A. Cook, who owned a large swath of real estate in the neighborhood, hired a contractor to build a one-story building with an attic on the Bush Street lot. But he suffered “a stroke of apoplexy” on March 15, 1901, which rendered him mentally incompetent. When he died later that year, his wife Lizzie J. Cook inherited about $15,000 in cash and property all over the Western Addition valued at more than $120,000, according to a probate listing in the San Francisco Chronicle.

Two of his three daughters, Inez Cook Noble and Alice Cook Swan, ultimately inherited the property from their mother. In December 1915, they filed a permit seeking to build a brick store and garage, with Miller as the architect, for $14,700.

It appears that the sisters quickly found a tenant — two brothers who operated a garage just across the street from the Cook family home at 2212 Sutter Street. The brothers, Edward and Charles Fisher, were both in their early 40s and had moved to San Francisco from Marin County. Inez and her husband, Paul Noble, a physician, lived on the same block at 2298 Sutter Street. The Nobles must have been pleased with the work of Miller and his protege, because they hired the two again in 1916 to design a small bungalow in Los Altos.

By June of 1917, the two brothers were operating their garage, known as the Fisher Brothers, at 2407 Bush Street, one of several addresses used through the years for this expansive building, according to city directories.

The firm also began selling Ford automobiles at the same address, becoming one of 12 Ford dealers around the city. Most of the big auto showrooms congregated on Van Ness Avenue, also known as Auto Row, where Miller & Pflueger were among many local architects to design elegant selling rooms in the 1920s.

The car business continued to boom in the ’20s, along with the economy and the stock market. By 1925, another partner, William B. Teall, joined Fisher Brothers. The dealership changed its name to Fisher Teall Motor Co. and moved to 1955 Post Street. Another garage operator took over the Bush Street space.

Today, the building is owned by Alan Yukawa, whose father bought it 41 years ago. Yukawa said he believed AT&T had occupied the site at one point, and also a plumbing supply company. His family turned it back into an auto repair shop.

As for the ladybugs that grace the front of the building, they remain a mystery.

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Therese Poletti is a San Francisco-based journalist and author of Art Deco San Francisco, The Architecture of Timothy Pflueger, published by Princeton Architectural Press.