Renaissance on Fillmore: 1955-65

An exhibition in Napa highlights artists who lived in the building at 2322 Fillmore.

ART | MICHAEL SCHWAGER

The history of Bay Area art is filled with stories of unique individuals, influential institutions and the social and political climate where artists congregated to live and create. An exhibition now at the Di Rosa Foundation in Napa tells one of those stories: the story of an exceptional group of artists in a particular San Francisco neighborhood during an especially vibrant period.

Most of the artists in “Renaissance on Fillmore: 1955-65” were relatively unknown in the mid-1950s — a transitional moment in the art world when abstract painting gave way to assemblage sculpture and both were influenced by poetry and music. Today these same artists form the foundation of modern art in Northern California and helped shape the future of American art. Their work remains remarkably vital and opens a window on the era during which it was created.

While North Beach flourished as a creative district, the Fillmore — in particular the northern portion referred to as the Upper Fillmore — was an equally important, if less publicized, locus of creative ferment and home to a remarkable and eclectic group of painters and poets. Many of these artists were affiliated, as students or faculty, with the California School of Fine Arts, now the San Francisco Art Institute.

The apartment building at 2322-2330 Fillmore was the nucleus of an artistic renaissance due to its residents and the activities that took place there. The unassuming white stucco and wood two-story structure near the corner of Washington and Fillmore contained four flats. It also had a modest backyard and even a plywood roof deck. The flats were large — seven rooms with 14-foot ceilings — and the rents small: a now-unbelievable $65 a month.

Even a partial list of the occupants from the mid 1950s through 1965 — when the building was sold and many of the artists were evicted — reads like a Who’s Who of Bay Area Beat Art and explains the building’s nickname, “Painterland”:

• artist and filmmaker Paul Beattie and his wife Dee, who were there around 1955 and 1956

• newlywed painters Joan and William H. Brown

• Bruce and Jean Conner, who shared lodgings with the poet Michael McClure and his wife Joanna briefly in 1957 before moving to their own place a block away on Jackson Street

• Jay DeFeo and Wally Hedrick, likely the building’s longest-tenured residents and its creative heart, who lived next door to the Browns and were introduced to the building by Beattie, taking his flat when he left

• Craig Kauffman, better known as an L.A. artist but who lived for a time in the flat of Jim Newman, founder of the Dilexi Gallery

• husband-and-wife Abstract Expressionist painters James Kelly and Sonia Gechtoff, who left Fillmore for New York around 1959

• the painter and musician Dave Getz, a resident between 1962 and 1964

• painter Les Kerr, who along with his wife, documentary filmmaker Mary Kerr and their son and daughter, lived there about the same time

• Ed Moses, another artist identified with Southern California, who, with his wife Avilda, took over Newman’s place around 1960.

Poet Jack Foley described 2322-2330 Fillmore as “inexpensive so artists could afford it, and when artists moved in and did their art and moved out again, they told other artists about it.” The sheer number — and talent — of the resident artists, poets and musicians transformed a “tenement building” into the place in the upper Fillmore to paint, write, play, critique, argue and party. In a 1998 interview, Hedrick recalled that “the building sort of vibrated with all of these mixed personalities … the poets came over a lot and there was a lot of bongo and chanting and sort of spontaneous musical drumming … there was a party about every weekend.”

Looking back on this unique place in the history of San Francisco art, it’s easy to get caught up in nostalgia for a time when the creativity, spontaneity and freedom with which these artists lived and worked seemed eminently more possible — and affordable. Yet looking at the art they created, now more than 50 years later, it is not nostalgia we’re filled with, but a deep and abiding respect for the beauty and power these works still exude.

Excerpted from the catalog for “Renaissance on Fillmore: 1955-65,” curated by Michael Schwager.

Is the Gold Coast becoming a Tech Coast?

Apple design chief Jonathan Ive purchased 2808 Broadway, originally built for the Hellman family.

THE GOLD COAST, also known as Billionaire’s Row, is home to many of the most exclusive and expensive homes in San Francisco. Along the three blocks of outer Broadway, from Divisadero to the Lyon Street steps, rise magnificent properties that have traditionally been home to San Francisco’s old guard — wealthy, philanthrophic, multi-generational families. Heading into 2013, the Gold Coast is turning over to a new breed of young tech execs.

Read more: “On the Block

One-of-a-kind dolls in a one-of-a-kind shop

STORY & PHOTOGRAPHS by Carina Woudenberg

He’s been a San Francisco resident for more than 30 years, but Jiro Nakamura still makes a yearly trek home to Japan to search for treasures for his shop on Fillmore Street.

The treasures include dolls — crafted hundreds of years earlier in many cases — and puppets, tea ceremony gear and kimonos fit for all occasions. They are offered at Narumi, a tiny shop at 1902 Fillmore that Nakamura named for a bakery his parents started in Japan.

He says he prefers antique Japanese dolls because they contain far more detail, especially in the hands and faces. “In old times, they had more time to make each piece,” Nakamura says.
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The 110th Thanksgiving

A 1902 engraving of Calvary Presbyterian Church at the corner of Fillmore and Jackson.

LOCAL HISTORY | JOE BEYER

Thanksgiving Day marks the 110th anniversary that Calvary Presbyterian Church has stood proudly at the corner of Fillmore and Jackson Streets.

But it’s actually much older than that.

Founded in 1854, the church’s first home was located on Bush Street between Montgomery and Sansome. In 1859, as the city expanded, the church moved to a new building on Union Square, which stood where the St. Francis Hotel is located today.

By the turn of the century, the city’s continuing westward expansion led the congregation to conclude it was time to move again, all the way out to Fillmore Street. More than a million bricks from the Union Square structure — along with the pews, much of the woodwork and the metal balcony supports — were moved and used in the new sanctuary. The first service in the building was held on Thanksgiving Day on November 27, 1902.

The timing was fortuitous. In April 1906 the great earthquake and fire struck the city and the area around Union Square was destroyed. But the fire did not spread to this part of the city, and Fillmore Street became the new center of activity.

Calvary suffered no structural damage and after the earthquake hosted many community meetings and services for other religions whose homes were destroyed by the earthquake and fire. The basement of the church was a temporary courtroom for the superior court.

Calvary Presbyterian Church in 1868 on the corner of Geary and Powell.

The Fillmore is getting its groove back

Opening night at Yoshi's on November 27, 2007 | Photograph by Mina Pahlevan

ON ANY GIVEN NIGHT, Fillmore Street south of Geary is buzzing with street life. Stylish patrons make their way to 1300 on Fillmore for cocktails and dinner, or line up outside State Bird Provisions hoping for a coveted seat at what Bon Appetit magazine anointed as the best new restaurant in the country. Concertgoers head to the Fillmore Auditorium and Yoshi’s. Around the corner at Fat Angel and Social Study, a youthful clientele talks over drinks and snacks.

Five years after the opening of the cornerstone Fillmore Heritage Center in November 2007, lower Fillmore is finally getting its groove back.

“We’re bullish on the Fillmore,” says Jason Kirmse, one of the owners of the Fat Angel wine bar, who hopes to open another spot nearby.
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Sidney’s salon is an oasis

Photograph of Sidney by Kathi O'Leary

By Kathi O’Leary

ON A CHARMING block of Sutter Street that narrowly missed the wrecking ball of redevelopment 50 years ago, Sidney Hair Care sits among Victorian homes, small shops and the Macedonia Baptist Church.

Sidney, the professional name of Betty Jean Macklin, has cared for clients of all races and walks of life at this shop since 1988. Even before then, she was cutting, perming, relaxing and coloring hair in salons nearby, and gone by, including Jose La Crosby, Patrick’s Barber Shop, Darrnell’s and Ivory’s.

“I am part of a 60-year tradition in this very location as an African American owned and operated hair salon,” she says. “And there aren’t too many of us left in this town who can say that.”
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Ellinwood mansion back on the market

The Ellinwood mansion at 2799 Pacific Avenue — sitting prominently on the corner of Divisadero Street — is back on the market for an asking price of $12.5 million. The house underwent a $10 million renovation a decade ago, but was repossessed last year. Curbed reports on the multi-generational drama of the house, which was originally on the dividing line between San Francisco and the Presidio.

Read more

You too can have a Victorian mansion

Photograph of John Gaul inside the Haas-Lilienthal House by Ramon del Rosario

Up the sidewalk to the imposing Victorian mansion at 2007 Franklin Street — the historic Haas-Lilienthal House — walks a group of senior travelers who call themselves road scholars. They are greeted by a gentleman in a vested suit and bowler hat, carrying a silver-headed cane, who welcomes them inside.

It’s not John Gaul’s home, although sometimes people think it is. From a passing car comes a shout: “Hey, are you Mr. Lilienthal?” He bows ever so elegantly and welcomes his visitors inside.

For more than a decade, Gaul has been one of about 50 docents who lead tours of the Haas-Lilienthal House, which was donated by descendants of some of the city’s most prominent families as a home for San Francisco Architectural Heritage, the historic preservation group. Heritage offers one-hour tours on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Docents guide visitors through the perfectly preserved wood-paneled rooms, most still with the original furnishings. They explain the distinctiveness of Victorian architecture and the privileged lives of the family that lived in the house from 1886, when it was built, until 1973.

“There was polite uplifting conversation in the front parlor,” Gaul says. “In the second parlor, maybe a little gossip while waiting for dinner. In the dining room, all was refinement, with good food, good wine and good conversation.”

WELCOMING NEW DOCENTS: Now Heritage is inviting new docents to join its ranks. A training program begins March 13 at 6 p.m. and includes eight sessions of lectures by historians and architects, plus tips from seasoned docents, including Gaul.

“Style is as important as substance,” Gaul says. “The facts alone don’t make it come alive.”

To learn more about becoming a docent at the Haas-Lilienthal House, contact volunteer coordinator Dorothy Boylan at 441-3000 ext. 24.

From Fillmore to Jonestown

Rev. Jim Jones preaches in the Peoples Temple on Geary near Fillmore.

On November 18, 1978 — 33 years ago today — 918 people from the Peoples Temple died in Jonestown. Most had followed Rev. Jim Jones to Guyana from the Fillmore. The Peoples Temple stood on Geary Boulevard just west of Fillmore Street where the post office is now located.

In a new book of poems and photographs called “Jonestown Lullaby,” former Peoples Temple insider Teri Buford O’Shea writes about the tragedy after keeping silent for 30 years.

Read more: “Life in the temple, good and bad

Booty-shaking at the Boom Boom Room

Photographs of the Boom Boom Room by Susie Biehler

SALOONS | CHRIS BARNETT

A t the Boom Boom Room, the divey-looking 78-year-old live music club on Fillmore at Geary, the best seat in the house is off limits to customers. The tufted red leather booth, with its perfect view of the band and dance floor, is permanently reserved for legendary blues guitarist John Lee Hooker, who some claim once owned the joint. Yet it’s unlikely he’ll show up these days, for even the hottest act. John Lee died in 2002.

“Well, maybe to you he’s dead. But not to me,” insists Hooker’s longtime business partner and the Boom Boom Room’s current owner, Alexander Andreas.

Andreas claims clubgoers have offered as much as $600 for Hooker’s booth — instead of the red vinyl bar stools or the 35-foot leather banquette that runs along the south wall. But the bids all fall on deaf ears. “It’s not for sale,” he says.

John Lee may now be strumming at the Big Bad Blues Bar in the Sky, but his Boom Boom Room on Fillmore is very much alive and kicking it every night except Monday.

Opened in 1933 as Jack’s Tavern at 1931 Sutter Street, across from Cottage Row, it was the first live music club that welcomed blacks in what would become, during World War II, the Fillmore jazz district. The music has since strayed far and wide from the original wailings of Chicago and New Orleans style jazz and blues. Soloists, duos, trios and full blown bands today belt out everything from R&B, funk, soul, boogie, salsa, rock, hip-hop and boogaloo to booty-shaking sounds that defy classification.

Andreas distills it down to “soul-centric, on-your-feet roots music.”

One thing is certain: The Boom Boom Room has the best happy hour — make that happy hours — on the street. At 4 p.m., 10 draught beers start flowing at $3 a pint. No taps for boring Bud or puny Miller Light here; they’re mainly Northern California microbrews sporting names like Arrogant Bastard, Downtown Brown, Dead Guy Ale and White Lightning. The same three bucks will get you a bottle of Pabst, Heineken, Corona, Negro Modello, Amstel Light and non-alcoholic O’Doul. Well drinks and wine are also priced at $3, but don’t look for Far Niente or Jordan; the wines here are a step up from the stuff that comes in a box. Happy hour ends at 8 p.m. and prices revert back to about $5 to $7.

The Boom Boom Room isn’t really a cocktail bar, although it does mix the classic martinis, sazaracs and manhattans.

But the stand up and shake it clientele here is a beer and whiskey crowd, anyway. When they opt for something stronger, it’s usually bourbon, scotch, vodka or rum straight or with a mixer. Barkeeps have no time to tinker with six or seven ingredients and customers don’t have the patience to wait for it. The creativity is on stage, not in the glass.

The best time to drop into the Boom Boom Room is around 6 p.m. when the band performing for the night will be tuning up and riffing, the crowd has not yet gathered, happy hour prices are in effect and no one is collecting admission. The cover charge, ranging from $5 to $20 depending on the day of the week and the performers, starts at 9 p.m. along with the show. There’s no cover on Sundays and Tuesdays.

Three hours before showtime is a lot like dress rehearsal; you see the room in all its naked glory. Beer boxes are strewn around. The house lights are tested, sound checks are taken, the mood of the place keeps changing. The band itself seems to shrink and expand before your very eyes. It often does. Andreas says musicians playing the Fillmore Auditorium and other clubs will frequently swing by and sit in with the band, often unexpectedly, for a song, a set or for the night.

Before the first downbeat is also a good time to check out the art: faded black and whites of greats from another era, recent color photos, some paintings of John Lee Hooker himself and a potpourri of photos of national treasures and local heroes, randomly hung. Among them are Buddy Miles, Fillmore’s own Etta James and Muddy Waters and his band, who were snapped at a recording studio that once stood on the corner of Pierce and Bush. Andreas himself took some of the photos, and others are by the great San Francisco rock photographer Jim Marshall.

When the music starts, the Boom Boom Room roars to life. Candles flicker in squatty red hurricane lamps on every table and along the bar. The overhead spots bathe the rich velvet stage drape in blood red and give the musicians a soft amber glow. The powerhouse sound system sounds like Dolby on steroids. The spinning disco ball throws off a kaleidoscope of mirrored images. Two Sputnik light fixtures over the bar radiate an odd but soothing turquoise. The sensation is just this side of psychedelic.

On a recent Saturday night, Andreas, 43, sporting a black T-shirt, was drinking in the scene along with a Maker’s Mark on the rocks, clearly pleased.

“You’ll notice everything’s curved here — the bar, banquettes, the leather upholstered automobile bumpers over the backbar,” he notes. Amazingly, the car bumpers fit right into the decor. So do the two dozen small brass plaques affixed to the bar in front of every stool — tiny tributes saluting some of Fillmore’s colorful characters by their street names: Chili Joe, Trumpet, the Lawman, Cable Car Joe, Nash, Mashed Potato George and Big Earl.

“Trumpet carried a trumpet case but he never played the trumpet,” Andreas recalls. “He was a bartender when this was Jack’s Bar on Sutter.” He also recalls the case was packed with loaded dice for the pick-up games he always had going in an alley near Jack’s — that is, until one of the perennial losers examined the “bones.”

The brass plaques, the framed photos, the tales of yesteryear, the DJ station just inside the front door and the juke box that hangs on the wall at the east end of the backbar are all ways the Boom Boom Room is doing its part to make sure the giants and the unknowns of jazz and blues and their music will never be forgotten.

Andreas puts it his way: “This place is dedicated to the pioneers, originators and legends, both old and new — the famous musicians and the up-and-coming artists.”

Read more: “Was it really John Lee Hooker’s joint?