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The story of a food revolution

Photograph of Tom McNamee by Dickie Spritzer

Celebrity food guru Alice Waters had been approached by a number of writers who wanted to tell the story of Chez Panisse. But they didn’t “get it,” and getting it was the whole idea behind Chez Panisse.

So she approached Tom McNamee, whose work on food and natural history she admired, and asked if he might be interested. Thus began a four-year project for the Fillmore resident that resulted in “Alice Waters and Chez Panisse,” published in April 2007, which stimulated favorable reviews both from critics and the book-buying public.

McNamee wrote the book in the Victorian facing St. Dominic’s Church that he and his wife Elizabeth have called home since 1998.

“This neighborhood probably has as high a percentage of people who care about food as any neighborhood in the world,” he says. “And some of my favorite places to eat are just around the corner,” Florio and Johnny Rockets among them.

After he wrote the proposal for the book, Waters flew with him to New York to meet with potential publishers. Ever the evangelist for organic fruit and vegetables, she brought along a bowl of tangerines. Every half hour a different publisher came to hear the pitch, leaving with tangerines in tow. Five of the six publishers bid for the rights to publish the book, and Penguin Press won the bidding.

“I was very lucky,” McNamee says. “Alice is a celebrity, and as a result I got a lot of money for it.”

The Chez Panisse book is McNamee’s fifth, and he’s already at work on his next, a memoir that, he says, “uses food as a way of looking at history.”

New 25-story tower planned

The proposed high-rise towers at Pine and Franklin.

By Don Langley

Another new high-rise residential tower — this one almost twice the permitted height — is being proposed in the neighborhood. The tower, part of a project to be built at Pine and Franklin Streets, would be 240 feet, or 25 stories, tall. A second tower on the site would be at the 130-foot height limit. The two towers would be connected by a seven-story, 65-foot high structure.
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Pets Unlimited celebrates 60 years

One fateful day in 1947, a scruffy dog wandered into the yard of a Pacific Heights home. Mrs. Carter Downing took the dog to the city pound, where she learned his prospects for survival were slim. Wayward pets were put to sleep unless adopted quickly.

Bobby, a Jack Russell terrier rescued from a burning building, was adopted by Janette Gerl.


Horrified by the thought, she decided to take the dog back home — and to adopt all the other dogs at the pound and start an impromptu adoption service.

Other animal lovers joined the cause, including her friend and Pacific Heights neighbor Alice Coldwell. Fueled by tenacity and gumption, they worked to raise awareness of pets who needed loving homes.

Thus began Pets Unlimited, the San Francisco institution at Fillmore and Washington, which celebrates its 60th anniversary in May 2007.
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The Arts & Crafts movement started here

Photographs of the Swedenborgian Church by Jim Karageorge

ICONS | LESLIE M. FREUDENHEIM

From 1876 to 1910, a group of creative and pioneering men and women in Northern California sought an architectural expression appropriate to the region. They rejected Victorian excess, preferring simple homes of natural materials. Their aspirations went beyond architecture to advocate a sensibility and a way of life.

The cradle of the movement was the Swedenborgian Church at Washington and Lyon Streets. Its leader was the modest but charistmatic Swedenborgian minister, Joseph Worcester, a serious student of architecture who inspired a quiet revolution as he turned Californians, and eventually Americans, toward the ideals of the Arts & Crafts movement and a return to a simpler life in harmony with nature.
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‘To fly with the angels’

Ruth Bernhard | Classic Torso With Hands (1952)

LEGENDARY PHOTOGRAPHER Ruth Bernhard, who lived up a narrow stair in a Victorian flat on Clay Street from 1953 until she died in December 2006 at age 101, was released to “fly with the angels” — her term for death — at a memorial service March 31, 2007, at Calvary Presbyterian Church.

Bernhard was remembered by scores of friends, former students and admirers as far more than one of the greatest photographers of all time.

She was a magical person, “like the Dalai Lama with a camera, spreading enlightenment,” said Los Angeles gallerist Peter Fetterman. He brought words of praise from director Steven Spielberg, who said he and his wife have Bernhard’s photographs in their bedroom, “so we sleep with her every night.”

Noted photographer Michael Kenna, one of Bernhard’s proteges, recalled working with her in the darkroom just off her kitchen, where they would sometimes stop to search for sustenance and drink plum wine and strong coffee. “Then, slightly intoxicated, jittery from caffeine, we’d go into the darkroom to make magic,” he said.

Joining her photographic family at the memorial was her brother, Alexander, who came from London. “Ruth was very, very happy to live in San Francisco and loved this place,” he said.

A friend remembered having sushi with her on Fillmore — “she favored Ten-Ichi” — and discussing other great photographers, including Berneice Abbott, who also lived long. “She’s too mean to die,” he recalled Bernhard saying.

No one felt that way about Ruth Bernhard. Many said she had opened their eyes and changed their lives.

“She may have lived long,” said another friend, “but she died young.”

Great Old Houses: 3001 Pacific

LANDMARKS | ANNE BLOOMFIELD

Hiding behind the trees at Pacific and Baker is a beautiful Georgian Revival house, all brick walls, white trim and fascinating roofline, the work of architects Bliss and Faville, who almost cornered the luxury market in Pacific Heights.

The mansion’s trim peaks in a broad entrance with an interrupted pediment over the door and fluted columns beside it. The clinker brick, dark baked like a good French bread and slightly irregular, gives the house an aura of age. Proportions are gracious and satisfying, with an easily comprehended geometry of cubes, double squares and equilateral triangles.

The client at 3001 Pacific was C.O.G. Miller. He moved in in 1907 with his wife, Janet, and brought up four children under Bliss and Faville’s elegant and multifaceted roof, with approximately five live-in servants part of the encampment.

C.O.G. (that’s Christian Otto Gerberding) founded Pacific Lighting Corp., a gas utilities holding company, in 1886 at the age of 21. Three years earlier his father, banker Albert Miller, had ordered C.O.G. to enter the gas business; the senior Miller had just invested in a new gaslight manufacturing company competing with the local big one. Eventually the two merged into PG&E, but not before C.O.G. had succeeded his father as president in 1900.

When he died at 87 in 1952, C.O.G. was still on the executive committees of PG&E and Pacific Lighting. He had also been a banker, president of AC Transit’s forerunner the Key System, a Stanford University trustee for 27 years and a director of Fireman’s Fund. As PG&E’s historian dryly remarked, “From the beginning he demonstrated a talent for finding business opportunities and a capacity to make them good.”

— Excerpted from an article originally published in the June 1988 issue of The New Fillmore and republished in Gables and Fables: A Portrait of San Francisco’s Pacific Heights by Anne Bloomfield and Arthur Bloomfield.

Diary of a spring chick

The big yellow bird nesting in Marc Jacobs' window tells all.

By BISCUIT THE CHICK

Hello. You may have noticed me flapping around in the window of your local Marc by Marc Jacobs boutique on Fillmore Street recently. And you might well be wondering how a fuzzy yellow fella like me snagged a spot in the retail industry.
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Worst?

The cheeky monkeys over at SFist.com held the “Official Worst MUNI Line” contest recently and were surprised when the 22-Fillmore line won. “We have to consider that a bit of an upset, as most of the comments we got bemoaned the hells of the 38-Geary more than the 22,” said a posting on the site. “On the other hand, we’ve all experienced the joys of the 22. We once had a job interview near California and Fillmore and after taking the bus from the Mission we realized we could commute to Oakland by BART in half the time.” The 38-Geary tied with the 30-Stockton as the second-worst line.

Art met craft at the Mathews studio

“Youth,” by Arthur Mathews, with Furniture Shop frame

ART | JEROME TARSHIS

From the 1890s to the early 1920s, the artists Arthur and Lucia Mathews were at the center of an artistic movement that sought to combine European tradition in art and design with the ideals of a new way of life that celebrated the natural splendors of Northern California.

After the earthquake and fire of 1906, the Mathewses made their artistic home on California Street.

Arthur’s studio at the Mark Hopkins Institute of Art on Nob Hill had gone up in smoke, along with his job as director of the school he had run since 1890. Art collector John Zeile Jr. came to the rescue. He had lost his family home at 1717 California Street, between Van Ness and Franklin, when it was dynamited as part of the firebreak. (The site is now a part of the Whole Foods complex.)

Zeile teamed up with Arthur and Lucia Mathews and in its place built a handsome building designed by Arthur in the Arts and Crafts style. It included a painting studio for Arthur and a showroom and workshop called simply the Furniture Shop. It also housed a magazine, Philopolis, devoted to Arthur’s high-minded plans for rebuilding San Francisco, together with Philopolis Press, which published limited edition books. Upstairs was a studio for William Keith, then widely considered California’s greatest artist.

At a time when the Mathewses needed a new livelihood, many wealthy San Franciscans suddenly found themselves in want of new or renovated homes. The Furniture Shop brought Arthur and Lucia into an artistic collaboration, aided by John Zeile’s capital and contacts, that supplied the community with unusually well-made furniture and decorative objects.

In 1916, the city having been substantially rebuilt, Philopolis ceased publication. Around 1920 — the records are vague — the Furniture Shop closed. Although the Mathewses continued to be active as artists and as designers for the home, the high point of their influence had passed. Newer decorative styles, informed by ever more modern movements and simplified form, superseded their gentler classical vision.

The center panel of Arthur Mathews's "Health and the Arts" mural.

The center panel of Arthur Mathews’ “Health and the Arts” mural.

MATHEWS MURALS STILL HANG NEARBY

Well-to-do Pacific Heights must have given Arthur and Lucia Mathews more than a few commissions, but when houses were later renovated or torn down, many objects were lost or sold, and the full record is unknown.

Still in place in the neighborhood is Health and the Arts, a group of three murals executed in 1912 for the former Stanford medical library, now the Health Sciences Library of California Pacific Medical Center, at Sacramento and Webster.

The first shows what Europeans would consider primitive medicine: a Native American healer holds out his hand over a woman patient. The second mural refers to classical Greece, depicting the god Apollo together with the nine muses representing the arts, plus Hygeia, the goddess of health. Set in an imagined Italian Renaissance city, the third mural depicts a proto-modern healer defending a woman falsely accused of witchcraft. Stopping well short of the 20th century, it suggests the turning point when early scientific medicine rejected superstition.

The centerpiece of the Mathews exhibition now on view at the Oakland Museum also comes from the neighborhood. It is the very first mural Arthur Mathews painted, in 1896, for the library of the Horace Hill mansion, on Lafayette Park at the northwest corner of Sacramento and Laguna, where the 2200 Sacramento tower now stands. A frieze three feet high and 108 feet long, it is clearly indebted to the style of Puvis de Chavannes, whose work Mathews admired in Paris. Titled The Arts of Peace, the mural depicts an idealized classical landscape, with mostly female figures representing agriculture, commerce, music and dance, presumably endorsing the California dream of an Arcadia in which getting and spending coexisted naturally with a love of the arts.

Some other Mathews murals remain in their original locations. Among them are the mural in the entry to the Mechanics Institute on Post Street, a pair of murals flanking the stage of the Curran Theater and a series of 12 panels tracing the history of California in the rotunda of the State Capitol in Sacramento.

Get those lamps while you can

Photograph of Forrest Jones by Dickie Spritzer

It’s a secret workshop tucked behind a disappearing door at the back of the store. Inside are rows and rows of jars, metal caps and electrical sockets.

But this is no mad scientist’s laboratory. From this hidden room come tasteful lamps that illuminate some of the finest homes in Pacific Heights — at prices far lower than those of lesser lamps. This is the domain of French lampmaker Philippe Henry de Tessan, who estimates he has created 12,000 lamps in this space during the last two decades.

He’s the owner — along with namesake Forrest Jones — of the emporium offering housewares and home accessories at 3274 Sacramento Street. It has been in business since 1974, and has become the place to go for unique lamps and a wide variety of lampshades.
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